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Additive can’t restore failed catalytic converter

By Paul Brand / Star Tribune (Minneapolis)
Published: January 27. 2013 4:00AM PST

Q: My 2003 Mazda MPV with 125,000 miles has the “check engine" light going on and off the past few weeks. The parts store’s scan tool found a code for catalytic converter issues. The manager suggested I try a couple cans of Sea Foam or a product called Cataclean, which I’ve never heard of. It’s about $25 for a 16-ounce can. Do either of those products do anything to revive a tired catalytic converter? Hate to spend foolish money on a long shot. The vehicle runs perfectly and has no unusual sounds or smells.

A: No additive can repair a failed catalytic converter, but one can clean deposits from a functioning converter and help restore its efficiency. In a nutshell, the catalytic converter matrix is covered with platinum or palladium that, when heated by the exhaust gases, oxidizes unburned fuel to eliminate raw hydrocarbons from the exhaust. As converters lose efficiency, the percentage of raw fuel in the exhaust increases, which is monitored by the rear oxygen sensor.

The good news is that federally legal aftermarket catalytic converters are available at a significantly lower price than most original equipment converters. A quick online check found replacement “cats" for your Mazda starting at under $100, not including installation.

Try the cleaners first, but if the fault code for a failed converter returns, consider an after-market replacement unit.

Q: I have a 1999 Chrysler Town & Country with 120,000 miles that is in great shape and a very good road car. A few months ago while on a long trip, the cruise control would not work. The control buttons are on the steering wheel.

It started off working indifferently. Sometimes I could get it to turn on but not work. Very occasionally, it worked fine. Sometimes it partially works after turning the wheel lock to lock. About a month after this started, the air bag warning light would go on for a while and then turn off. The light’s “on" period became longer and longer until now it is on most but still not all the time. Could it be bad connections in the steering wheel? Is this repairable without spending a lot of money, or should I chalk it up to a 14-year-old car?

A: The problem very likely is in the wiring harness in the steering column — particularly if it’s a tilt column — or instrument cluster harness. Yes, it’s probably due to the vehicle’s age and mileage, but regardless, the issue needs to be addressed. Why? The air-bag warning light. When this light is illuminated, the air bag may not function properly in a crash, and potentially could deploy unintentionally.

Have a shop scan for DTC fault codes for the restraint system as well as the cruise control. This should pinpoint the problem and give you an idea of repair costs. Replacing a harness is far less costly than potential injuries if the air bag fails to properly deploy in a serious crash.

— Brand is an automotive troubleshooter and former race car driver. Email questions to paulbrand@startribune.com. Include a daytime phone number.

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