Try a new sport: Bouldering

Published 5:00 am Monday, July 29, 2013

Reporter’s prelude: Summer is a time for adventure. Vacation from work or school — coupled with favorable weather — creates the perfect combination for trying new things outside. And Central Oregon is a hot spot for summer sports and recreational activities.

This time of year, outdoors aficionados flock to the area for a variety of pursuits, among them golfing, mountain biking, running, kayaking and rock climbing.

For those willing to venture beyond Central Oregon’s staple summer pastimes, dozens of other fair-weather sports and activities await. Join me as I try some of the region’s more offbeat athletic offerings — some for the first time. This week, I try bouldering.

Rock climbing is not synonymous with ropes and harnesses.

One type of climbing — called bouldering — does not require climbers to suspend from ropes as a safeguard against dangerous falls. While roped climbs can ascend thousands of feet and last hours (or even days) on end, bouldering is more about short climbs that usually last about five minutes and rarely ascend beyond 20 feet.

In place of ropes, climbers position thick foam mattresses (known as “crash pads”) beneath them to catch their falls.

According to multiple sources on the sport, bouldering for decades has served as a form of training for roped climbs and mountaineering. But as those same sources note, ropeless climbing has evolved in recent years into its own discipline. The sport has been well-received in Central Oregon, due in large part to the world-class climbing opportunities at Smith Rock State Park. A renowned climbing mecca near Terrebonne in northern Deschutes County, Smith Rock is home to several bouldering areas. Near Bend, popular outdoor bouldering spots include Meadow Camp off Century Drive not far from Widgi Creek Golf Club, and areas next to the Deschutes River Trail near Mount Bachelor Village.

First-time climbers may want to try bouldering in the gym before venturing outside. “It’s hard to find easy (outdoor) routes here,” says Sarah Wyant, a climbing instructor at Bend Rock Gym. “For beginners, gyms can be more approachable.”

Rock gyms provide a controlled environment with wall-to-wall floor padding and staff members to offer assistance. Gyms also offer climbers the ability to train at night, as well as during inclement weather, Wyant notes.

For those planning to jump straight into outdoor bouldering, Wyant suggests taking along an experienced climber — at least at first. Veteran climbers can share crucial safety information, such as how to “spot,” or stand below a boulder to redirect a climber’s fall so that he or she lands safely on a crash pad.

Climbing shoes, chalk and, if you are climbing outdoors, a crash pad, are all you need to start bouldering. Rock gyms and guide services offer rental equipment, but purchasing gear can be a wise investment for the long run.

Crash pads are available in various sizes and cost an average of $200, according to Wyant. Chalk bags are priced at about $20, and chalk tied into a “ball” of loose-weave fabric sells for less than $5, and can prevent sweaty hands from sliding on a rock or wall. Wyant recommends wearing moisture-wicking clothing when bouldering, but she suggests avoiding restrictive or “flowy” clothing that can hinder your climbing ability.

Shoes range in price from $80 to $200. They should fit tight around your feet to provide toe leverage for standing on tiny holds, she says.

“Your toes should touch the end (of the shoe),” Wyant explains. “It’s OK if your feet curl, but it shouldn’t be painful for beginners.”

Newcomers to the sport should be prepared to meet the physical — and mental — demands of climbing, says Wyant.

Physically, climbing engages the core (deep torso muscles), arm and leg muscles. Mentally, “(climbing) is a puzzle,” she says. “You need to be able to set everything else aside and focus on the climb.”

My turn

Over the past two years, I have bouldered several times with my husband at indoor climbing gyms in Bend and elsewhere. But I have always struggled to stay on the wall for more than a minute or two.

In an attempt to improve my climbing stamina and form, I decided to take an introductory bouldering lesson at Bend Rock Gym, located in southeast Bend. I chose to climb indoors for safety reasons: As the instructor Wyant notes above, climbing outside with a small crash pad can be tricky — and dangerous — for a novice climber.

First, Wyant pointed out how the gym (which also offers roped climbing) is set up. Each bouldering route is marked with colored tape that corresponds to the route’s difficulty level (called a “V” scale, with V0 as the easiest climb and V10 the most difficult).

Next, she demonstrated one method to begin a climb, called a “sit start” (see “If you go”). She also explained key bouldering terms like “traverse” (climbing laterally instead of vertically) and “bump” (moving the same hand twice).

The instructor then went over some safety points. When falling, “keep your knees bent to absorb the impact,” she said. If jumping down from the wall or rock after a climb, “make sure no one is below you before you drop.”

She also showed me how to use the front edge of my shoe instead of the lateral side for more stable foot placement on holds.

Then it was my turn.

I started my 30-minute climbing session with a V0 route with a sit start. About halfway across the wall (I was traversing), I found myself in an uncomfortable body position, with my arms fully extended to the sides and my feet on the same hold.

To switch positions, I let go of the hold with my left hand in an attempt to move it closer to my right hand. As I did this, the right side of my body swung uncontrollably out from the wall and threw me off balance, causing me to fall.

Rock climbers call this unstable move the “barn door,” since my body swung out from the rock like a door on a hinge. To avoid this move, Wyant suggested looking down at foot placement when climbing, and moving feet before hands. I took her advice for my second attempt and found it much easier to stay in a stable climbing position when my toes found secure holds before my fingers.

Once at the top of the 15-foot route, I looked down at Wyant for guidance.

“Look for good holds to use when getting down,” she said. “Think about climbing down a ladder.”

After conquering the V0 route several times, I attempted a V1 route, focusing on my footwork and keeping my arms straight.

“Loosen your grip,” Wyant instructed from below. “You are wasting energy by clenching your hands on the holds.”

Relaxing my grasp seemed to refresh my forearms and fingers, which were beginning to feel tired and achy. Soon I was climbing down from the top, ready to go again. My eagerness came as no surprise to Wyant.

“It’s easy for beginners to get hooked (on bouldering),” she said. “There’s a thrill in finding your limits and pushing through them.”

Quick tips: The essentials

1. Master the “sit start.”

One way to start a climb, says Wyant, is by placing two hands on your first hold, near the lowest point of the wall or boulder. Sitting (or squatting) on the ground, place your feet on two holds and bend your knees, she says. Then, “pull yourself into the rock, keeping your arms straight.”

2. Watch your feet.

“A big mistake is to look up when climbing,” says Wyant. Instead, “look down at where you will place your foot, which will help center your weight.” The hardest part, she says, is using your legs — not your arms — to pull yourself up. To maintain your center of gravity, “your weight needs to be directly above your feet.”

3. Know your limits.

“When your arms start to feel shaky (while climbing), you are approaching your physical limits,” says Wyant. If your body feels severely fatigued while climbing, it is probably a good idea to call it a day, she adds. “You don’t want to take a bad fall.”

If you go

Bend Rock Gym

What: Indoor climbing gym, offering lessons and rentals

Where: 1182 S.E. Centennial Court, Bend

Cost: $15 day pass, $10 ages 15 and younger; $30-$45 per person for private and group lessons; $5 climbing shoe rentals

Contact: 541-388-6764, www.bendrockgym.com

Smith Rock Climbing Guides

What: Outdoor lessons and guide services

Where: Smith Rock State Park (located about 3 miles east of Terrebonne)

Cost: $175-$225 for private lessons, $65-$90 per person for group lessons; rates include rental shoes

Contact: 541-788-6225, www.smithrockclimbingguides.com

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