Chef Antonio Ramirez cooks blackened ahi tuna at McGrath’s Fish House in Bend.

First established in Salem in 1980, McGrath’s Fish House group has become a regional presence, with eight restaurants in Oregon and another dozen in five other Western states.

Founder John McGrath had grown up fishing and harvesting crab, clams and oysters from coastal estuaries with his family. When he decided to go into the restaurant business, it wasn’t much of a stretch for him to decide upon a seafood theme.

Today the bounty of the Oregon and Washington coasts, as well as the further depths of the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, makes the McGrath’s name synonymous with good fish in the minds of many seafood lovers.

My responses on two visits to Central Oregon’s only McGrath’s Fish House, on U.S. Highway 97 in north Bend, were mixed. In each case, the fish was excellent — fresh, tasty and perfectly prepared. Soup and salad, though not of the same quality as the fish, were satisfactory.

But attention to customers, especially in the lounge but to a lesser degree in the main dining room, left a lot to be desired.

Solo visit

On my first visit to McGrath’s, I requested to sit in the lounge, where I noticed several other people dining. I was seated promptly but was completely ignored for a full 10 minutes. Finally I flagged down a server. Although she had bustled several times past my table, she said, “Oh! I’m sorry! I didn’t see you!”

She took my order, and soon my food began to arrive, beginning with a half-loaf of warm sourdough bread and a ramekin of whipped butter. Next, I had a green salad and a cup of clam chowder. Neither was top-notch.

The crunchy iceberg and romaine lettuce in the salad were a little brown around the edges, suggesting they were past their prime. And it was a rather ordinary salad to begin with, with red cabbage, shredded carrot, cucumber slices, toasted croutons and Thousand Island dressing.

The New England-style clam chowder was moderately thick and creamy but bland. Chunks of potato were larger than the chopped bits of clams, and it lacked bacon and herbs that might have given it more flavor. A good peppering was merely a placebo.

On the other hand, my entree, off the daily “fresh sheet,” was excellent. Dover sole, straight from the coast, was rolled in a hazelnut crust and lightly pan-fried. Served with a lemon wedge and thyme-sprinkled green beans, it almost made me forget about an obnoxious patron at another table.

Neither the server nor the management did anything to resolve the issue with a clearly inebriated young woman, whose loud conversation was disturbing other diners. One couple at a nearby table picked up their place settings and drinks and moved across the room. Another couple asked the server if she would ask the young woman to pipe down — even as a stream of McGrath’s employees stopped by her table to converse. The situation reflected poorly on the restaurant as a whole.

Tuna and halibut

When I returned to McGrath’s for a follow-up meal, I made sure to take a table in the main dining section, a good distance away from the lounge. Black-and-white historical photos of the Oregon coastal fishing industry peppered the walls. Blues and swing-era music provided a pleasant background mood.

And my server was excellent despite some glitches for which she was not responsible. When I requested a glass of sauvignon blanc to accompany my meal, she returned apologetically from the bar to report that the white varietal was out of stock. When I frivolously asked why ahi “loin” was so named, she came back with an answer from the chef.

That ahi tuna appetizer was delicious, by the way. Six thick slices were rolled in fiery Cajun spices and seared rare. They were served with shredded daikon radish and wasabi cream, although I did have to request additional wasabi (which was delivered promptly).

Although it took what I considered an exceptionally long time for my “halibut supreme” entree to find its way to my table, it was also wonderful. An Alaskan halibut filet was coated with Japanese panko crumbs and grilled perfectly — moist and flaky. It was served atop a very generous portion of fettucine tossed with mushrooms, artichoke hearts and red peppers in a lobster cream sauce. Accompanying cole slaw was more sweet than tart.

Would I return to McGrath’s for seafood? Decidedly, yes. But I would be sure to sit in the main dining room, and I would focus my attention on fish rather than sides or wine. And I would come prepared not to let service hiccups upset me.

SMALL BITES

Anthony’s at the Old Mill has been honored by the Washington Wine Commission for its wine list, nearly two-thirds of which is from Washington. The seafood restaurant won the “Best Out-of-State Washington Wine Program” in the 2009 Washington Wine Restaurant Awards, sponsored by Seattle Business magazine and presented April 3 in Seattle. The Anthony’s group has 15 seafood restaurants in Washington in addition to its Old Mill shop. 475 S.W. Powerhouse Drive, Bend; 541-389-8998 or www.anthonys .com.

The Old Mill Martini Bar has closed pending the issuance of a new license from the Oregon Liquor Control Commission. A reasonably priced menu of world cuisine and a regular schedule of entertainment had revived the popular cocktail lounge in recent months, but a change of ownership has led the OLCC to hold off on renewing the license until an investigation can be completed. 360 S.W. Powerhouse Drive, Suite 210, Bend; 541-389-4900.

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McGrath’s Fish House

Location: 3118 N. U.S. Highway 97, Bend

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Price range: Lunches $7.29 to $12.99; dinner appetizers $5 to $9, entrees $9.99 to $29.99 (most $13.99 to $19.99)

Credit cards: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Children’s menu: Yes

Vegetarian menu: There’s a pear, bleu cheese and walnut salad, but little else without seafood

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Outdoor seating: Limited seasonal seating

Reservations: Not accepted, but there is a preferred seating list for those who call up to two hours in advance

Contact: 541-388-4555, www.mcgrathsfishhouse.com

Scorecard

OVERALL: B

Food: A-. Fish entrees and appetizers are excellent; side dishes are less appealing.

Service: B. Inconsistent; better in the dining room than lounge, but pacing is a problem.

Atmosphere: C+. Although decor is pleasant, management could try harder to improve the mood.

Value: B+. Moderate prices are very reasonable for fresh seafood entrees.