Country Catering co-owners Frank Serbus, center, and his son Cody Serbus, center right, help customers with their orders in Country Catering in Bend.

The Country Catering Co. has a lot of local fans, but I am not one of them.

Acclaimed by another publication as Central Oregon’s “best deli” and “best caterer,” the little family-owned company has clearly impressed a lot of Bendites over its 17 years in the High Desert.

I’m not in a position to judge the catering end of its operation. But two dine-in visits to its deli, in a corner of the East Bend Plaza industrial park, left me unimpressed.

That’s a shame, because I really like the people who own and operate Country Catering. The father-and-son team of Frank and Cody Serbus, along with a small and loyal staff, has developed a strong reputation not only for its ranch-style barbecue but also for being involved members of the local community.

The company was started as a meat market and deli in Santa Barbara, Calif., in 1969 by Frank Serbus’ father. Frank started working for his dad in 1974 and, in 1992, moved with his own family to Bend. Originally located at the Butler Market Store on South Third Street, Serbus relocated to the east side of town in 2005.

A tri-tip lunch

If Country Catering has a feature dish, it is tri-tip steak, barbecued outdoors on its own 4-foot grill. When a friend and I dropped by for lunch, this was the sandwich I had to have. Yet, it wasn’t all that I hoped it would be.

The beef was good, but the sandwich was boring. Sliced about a quarter-inch thick, the meat was served with lightly melted Jack cheese on a fresh French roll with a hint of mayonnaise. According to the menu, it also came with the company’s own salsa, but all I discerned were a few stewed tomatoes. Lettuce and onions would have been nice additions.

My companion ordered a Thai chicken sandwich on sourdough bread. The only thing Thai about the sandwich was a sweet chili sauce on the poultry breast, which carried a smoky flavor from the grill.

In addition to Jack cheese, this sandwich included green leaf lettuce and a slice or two of tomato. The bread was good, but my friend opined that she wished it had been toasted instead of just heated.

All sandwiches come with a choice of deli salad. Neither my pasta salad nor my friend’s potato salad had much zest. In the pasta salad, elbow and spiral macaronis were tossed with mayonnaise and bits of red bell pepper, black olive and green onion. The red potato salad included chopped pickles and a heavy sprinkle of ground thyme.

A breakfast scramble

A few days later, I returned alone for breakfast. A buffet included a serving dish full of scrambled eggs and other dishes with hash-brown potatoes and bacon beneath a heat lamp beside the cash register. Preferring something freshly prepared, I ordered from the menu.

My choice was a Southwest scramble. Red bell peppers, green chilies, chopped tomatoes, yellow and green onions were first sauteed; eggs were then scrambled in with cheddar cheese. The cook did a nice job, preparing the eggs just as I like them: not runny but still soft, and far from overcooked.

But when she scooped under the heat lamp for the potatoes, I cringed. And with good reason. The peppery potatoes — which the restaurant called “home fries,” but which were more like a classic potatoes O’Brien with red pepper and green onion — were much too dry. I suspect this condition was due to extended slow baking instead of fresh preparation.

Better was the toast (two slices of rye, served with packets of butter and refrigerator jam) and a small cup of fresh fruit. The cubes of cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon and pineapple may have been the best part of the morning meal.

Dine in, dine out

Country Catering is pleasant and modern but very basic. Approached from a small parking lot at the northeast corner of Wilson Avenue and Ninth Street, it seats just 28 diners indoors (at seven tables on a concrete floor). The decor consists primarily of framed, self-promotional posters hanging on the walls. A small outdoor seating area is expanded onto an adjacent patio during the warmer months.

More diners come in for takeout, however. For them, the main attractions are a deli counter and a retail shelf. A variety of marinated meats — homemade sausages, chicken, pork ribs and the barbecued tri-tip — are sold here, along with a range of deli salads; on the retail counter are a choice of homemade condiments as well as specially treated briquettes for home barbecues.

The morning menu, served until 10:30, includes not just eggs, but pancakes, French toast and breakfast burritos as popular selections. Luncheon choices include French dip, Reuben and grilled turkey sandwiches, soups and Mexican dishes.

SMALL BITES

Geno’s Italian Grill now brings upscale Mediterranean cuisine to downtown Madras’ Harriman Building. A wide-ranging menu extends from pizzas and calzones to such classic dishes as spinach manicotti, lobster ravioli and chicken Marsala. A variety of sandwiches, highlighted by a rich Italian meatball sub, are featured on the lunch menu. Open 11 a.m. to close Tuesday to Saturday, 4 p.m. to close Sunday. 212 S.W. Fourth St. (at D Street), Madras; 541-475-6048.

Lola’s in the Breezeway opened Oct. 23 in downtown Bend, in the former home of The Downtowner. Owner Amy Levinger said the restaurant offers “American comfort food at a value,” with soups, salads, sandwiches and other dishes made from scratch and priced under $10. A graduate of Portland’s Western Culinary Institute, Levinger was assisted by former Cork chef Greg Unruh in preparing the menu. Lola’s also has a full bar. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday. 852 N.W. Brooks St., Bend; 541-508-4533.

RECENT REVIEWS

Diego’s Spirited Kitchen (A-): Bringing a creative gourmet sensibility to classic Mexican and Southwestern plates, Diego’s boasts a professional wait staff, moderate prices and a rich, dark ambience. Dishes include the likes of pork carnitas raviolis, coconut-shrimp tacos and a vaquero steak in a bourbon-chipotle sauce. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. every day. 447 S.W. Sixth St., Redmond; 541-316-2002.

Tomo Japanese Restaurant (B): Although the seafood is fresh and the butterfish superb, sushi rice is mediocre and hot dishes such as teriyaki chicken lack finesse. Nonetheless, the prices are reasonable, service friendly and atmosphere inviting. Lunch 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday; dinner 4 to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 4 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 3 to 8:30 p.m. Sunday. 61160 S. U.S. Highway 97, Bend; 541-323-8888 or www.bendsushi .com.

Johnny Carino’s (A-): A family-style Italian restaurant at the Cascade Village shopping center, Carino’s serves a menu ranging from classic pastas to individually prepared steaks and seafood. Prices are moderate and the professional staff has a pride in its product that belies Carino’s corporate roots. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 63455 N. U.S. Highway 97, Bend; 541-318-6300 or www.carinos.com.

Country Catering Co.

Location: 900 S.E. Wilson Ave., Bend

Hours: 6:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Monday to Friday (breakfast until 10:30 a.m.), 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday.

Price range: Breakfast $5.95 to $9.50; lunch and dinner $6.50 to $10.95

Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Children’s menu: No

Vegetarian menu: Salads

Alcoholic beverages: Beer

Outdoor seating: Yes

Reservations: For catered events only

Contact: 541-383-5014 or www.bendcatering.com

Scorecard

OVERALL: B-

Food: B-. The meat is good, but sandwiches and breakfasts need more attention to detail.

Service: B+. Friendly, no-nonsense counter service.

Atmosphere: C. Basic, with a deli counter, promotional posters and limited seating.

Value: B. Prices are reasonable but no bargain for value received.