Joe Kline / The Bulletin Grilled Sea Scallops with Raspberry-Thyme Beurre Blanc.

At a time of year when we’re celebrating fresh Dungeness crab in all its seasonal glory, let’s not forget a culinary gift being pulled from East Coast waters this time of year: scallops. There are two main choices you’ll encounter: the large Atlantic sea scallops, caught miles from shore, and the tiny bay scallops, which are harvested from shallow coastal bays and estuaries as far north as Cape Cod all the way down to the Gulf of Mexico. You can always find both sizes in their frozen state, but between November and March, you might actually be able to obtain freshly harvested ones.

Just beware, it has become a common practice to soak shucked scallops in a water/tri-polyphosphate solution that improves shelf life and moisture retention. Besides the fact that it’s yet another chemical we don’t really need to consume, scallops soaked in a phosphate solution won’t brown properly without overcooking due to the excess moisture.

So it’s important to ask at the time of purchase where the scallops were sourced from and if they are preservative-free. The terminology to keep in mind is “dry-packed,” which means that the scallops have NOT been dipped in the dreaded solution.

Of course, as I said, “fresh” isn’t all it’s cracked up to be if the scallops have been sitting around in a fishmonger’s case for a couple of days. Indeed, if you can’t get your hands on truly fresh out-of-the-bay bay or sea scallops, then your next best option is to buy them while they’re still frozen. That way, you’ll be guaranteed a good quality offering. Then, simply thaw in your refrigerator overnight, rinse and dry thoroughly before cooking.

This time of year, I like to pull from my frozen cache of scallops and drop them into simmering stews and chowders. Their sweet and tender character is a sublime addition.

The only caution I’ll add is not to overcook these special morsels or they become fairly tough. In fact, my most favorite approach are simple sautes with a bit of butter and a splash of wine. Heaven!

— Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis food writer, cookbook author and artist. Contact: janrd@proaxis.com.