Gluten-free Honest Baking in Bend

Published 1:39 am Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Skrzynski, left, and McDonald, pull a fresh pizza from the oven. Honest Baking sells 20 pounds of its gluten-free pizza dough to Tooliani’s Italian Bistro & Pizzeria every week.

It was an unlikely partnership, but this business was truly a passion between like-minded foodies.

Mary Skrzynski was an orthopedic surgeon with three young children. Cate McDonald, also a mother of three, was a former public relations executive who had attended culinary school in Seattle.

The two Bend moms bonded at a Montessori preschool pick-up when discussing Dutch-process cocoa. That soon led to recipe exchanges and baking tips.

A friendship around food and children began, and from that sprang the idea for a gluten-free baked goods business. The pair thought it would be a good niche to fill, and they believe it’s a healthier way to eat.

This second career act has happened quickly, surprising both these moms. They first started their business out of McDonald’s home kitchen on Awbrey Butte in the summer of 2012.

“We started taking our baked goods to the farmers markets around town, and we always seemed to sell out,” said McDonald.

“People started asking us where they could buy our products in the winter, since farmers market is really only in the summer.”

McDonald and Skrzynski approached Newport Avenue Market. After a successful taste test, the store agreed to carry the pair’s breads, muffins and cookies.

The two bakers found they could barely keep up with the demand. They admit it’s a good problem to have, but it also meant they had to move out of McDonald’s home kitchen, which was certified with the Oregon Department of Agriculture. This certification allowed them to bake goods there for commercial sale.

The two moms’ baked products have become so widely popular they hired a branding consultant who advised changing the French name to a name people could easily remember. Originally named “Les Deux Amis,” which in French means “the two friends,” the bakery is now Honest Baking.

“It’s important to us to use the best local, organic products we can in our baked goods. We use the real butter, real cream, real eggs,” said Skrzynski. “We found if you try to cut out sugar or dairy or use fake ingredients or substitutes in our products, it doesn’t cut the mustard.”

McDonald added, “Every ingredient in our recipes you can pronounce and recognize; it’s ‘Honest Baking.’”

Tasty bites

Living a gluten-free lifestyle can be a challenge, especially with children and especially when it comes to desserts.

Leave it to children to be the most critical and outspoken when it comes to taste in gluten-free products.

Both McDonald’s and Skrzynski’s children are often the taste testers, and they often don’t recognize that the latest creations are gluten-free.

I gave my own teenage daughter some of their gluten-free pizza, and she didn’t recognize it was a gluten-free product. She also tested their scones and cookies, and she said it was all “unbelievably yummy” and asked me to buy more. This is the highest praise that McDonald and Skrzynski say they can receive, because they’ve had to do months and even years experimenting with their gluten-free recipes, tweaking what gluten-free flours worked with various products.

They seemed to have dialed it in, and their products are served at Lone Pine Coffee Roasters, Ariana Restaurant and Little Bite Cafe. In addition, they sell 20 pounds of their pizza dough to Tooliani’s Italian Bistro & Pizzeria every week.

But their biggest coup so far may be the contract they signed with Whole Foods late last month to provide a variety of baked goods.

“We’ve grown so much, we’ve actually outgrown Cate’s … kitchen,” said Skrzynski. She says it is a little bittersweet, as this is the kitchen where it all started.

“We are moving into a commercial kitchen, where we’ll be able to have more space to bake more goods for our customers. Honest Baking products should be in Bend’s Whole Foods Market by the end of March.”

From scratch

In McDonald’s gleaming white kitchen, the Corian counters along the long sink area provide ample space for food prep. On this counter, McDonald has not one but two KitchenAid mixers, which are well-used and well-loved.

“I remember that first summer we started, we only had one small KitchenAid (mixer) and we didn’t hire babysitters either,” said Skrzynski, laughing. “When my neighbor gave us the big KitchenAid, it saved my life.”

A long white island almost the length of the kitchen spans the central part of the space. The island is the workhorse for these two bakers, who keep the area immaculately clean and spotless as they prep their goods.

“We did a ton of research on gluten-free recipes,” said McDonald, pointing to thick binder on the kitchen island. The binder is full of their recipes for gluten-free scones, muffins, cupcakes, brioche, tea breads, boules, cookies, tarts and cheesecakes.

The two moms say they have researched, experimented and tweaked all their recipes for the past two years.

The bakers leaned against the kitchen island, which opens up to the dining nook area, where natural light brightly illuminates the space.

McDonald glanced out the dining nook window, just as a pair of coyotes crossed her backyard. Both bakers took notice of the coyotes and seemed content that this second act career afforded them the opportunity to spend more time with their families and time to experience random wildlife crossing their paths.

Gluten-free goes big

Skrzynski and McDonald say they can hardly believe how much the gluten-free market has increased.

“It’s not just a fad, like Atkins diet. It’s not going away. A lot of people find they feel better when they eliminate gluten,” said Skrzynski, the former surgeon. “Really only about 1 percent of the population has the serious celiac disease, but I think there are a lot more people who have some gluten sensitivity. We were looking for a niche when we started. We had no idea how big it was going to be.”

According to the latest Nielsen survey, 11 percent of households reported buying gluten-free products last year.

Though Honest Baking is growing, Skrzynski says you can still expect them to be at farmers markets this summer, too.

“We’re not too big for our britches. We’ll be back this summer,” said Skrzynski.

What are the three ingredients you’ll always find in your home kitchen?

McDonald: Bittersweet (64 percent cacao) chocolate in bulk, fresh garlic, Tumalo Farm’s cheese. I’ve yet to use all three in the same recipe.

Skrzynski: Homemade basil pesto (for noodles, in meatballs, on fish or steak, into soup … whatever); dried New Mexico chilies (makes every stew more interesting); bittersweet chocolate.

Favorite home meals you like to prepare?

McDonald: Well, both Mary and I talk about how we used to enjoy making these 10-step, amazingly detailed meals. Now, with our schedules and kids, making easy meals using fresh, healthy ingredients is key. We do a lot of Mexican and Italian-type foods at home; chicken enchiladas with tomatillo sauce, black bean burritos with skirt steak and gluten-free corn tortillas, spaghetti (I buy the gluten-free Bionaturae) and meatballs, homemade pesto and (gluten-free) pasta. (I add a bit of baby spinach to the basil for an extra nutrient boost.)

Skrzynski: Sumo di carne (braised beef, tomatoes and onions in a red wine and espresso) or Zuni-style roasted chicken and gluten-free chocolate chip ice-cream sandwiches for dessert, or chocolate decadence cheesecake for grown-ups, also gluten-free.

What is your favorite home kitchen appliance?

McDonald: My dishwasher; it’s a Miele. I have no idea how old it is, but it has never let me down and it runs like a dream, and it’s so quiet.

Skrzynski: No question, the food processor.

Conversely what is the one appliance you disdain in the kitchen?

McDonald: I don’t love the microwave. In fact, ours broke for six months. The only thing I needed it for was reheating my cup of coffee; oh, and making quesadillas the cheater’s way.

Skrzynski: If I have room, it’s all good.

What is the best or favorite hand tool you use in your kitchen, other than a knife?

McDonald: My microplane zester. I’ve used mine (I have multiple sizes) for citrus zest, grating fresh nutmeg and bulk dark chocolate.

Skrzynski: My super skinny, mini spatula (used for prying out gluten-free lemon bars.)

What is your spice of choice?

Skrzynski: There’s no substitute for freshly grated nutmeg.

Do you have a favorite cooking memory or favorite memorable meal you prepared?

McDonald: I would say a meal that stands out in my memory is the Thanksgiving meal my mom prepared for us at our house a few days after my first child was born in Seattle. Although the food was typical Turkey Day fair, the memory stands out because of how truly thankful I was with the healthy birth of my first baby.

Skrzynski: We sponsor “Friends Thanksgiving” at our house after we go to my in-laws for the canned cranberry sauce, jello molds and turkey with the pop-out “done” gizmo. We like to hang out with our (foodie) friends and have their amazing Thanksgiving food; everyone brings something to the table.

Favorite room where you like to eat your meals?

McDonald: We have a cozy nook in the kitchen.

Skrzynski: I love to take a beer out on the front stoop with my husband and catch up in the evening sun … then we all go make dinner and all sit down as a family in the kitchen.

Does your family have regular meals together?

McDonald: Definitely. It’s a challenge given how busy we all are, but we try to have dinners together most nights.

Skrzynski: Everyone helps with (dinner prep) a little or as best they can: grate some cheese, or dress the salad or set the table, put out the candles. It’s definitely a group affair.

Best meal you’ve ever eaten in your life?

Skrzynski: A gigundo plate of Bolognese with a simple salad and a local red wine on a self-led bike tour on our honeymoon in Sardinia. We ate like (starving) kings.

Guilty food pleasures?

McDonald: I love a good cheeseburger, on a gluten-free bun, of course, with all the fixings.

Skrzynski: Bacon, hands down!

What is your ideal dream kitchen?

McDonald: Wow, this is a fun question. My dream kitchen would have a big island work/prep space with lots of room for stool seating. I’d also love to have room for a very large table in the kitchen. I grew up gathering around a table with family and friends, having great conversation and eating great food. I would love to have more space in my kitchen to entertain more family and friends.

Skrzynski: It would be completely functional, all stainless steel, very bright, very modern with six times my current counter space.

What do you like to do outside of your kitchen? In other words, what happens when the baker’s hat comes off?

McDonald: Spend time with my kids and husband, play tennis, ski, read, enjoy Central Oregon’s beautiful outdoors.

Skrzynski: As a family, we do all of the Bend outdoor stuff: ride bikes (a lot), skiing, snowboarding, camping and hanging out at one of the high lakes in the summer.

If you could invite anyone as your dinner guest, who would it be?

Skrzynski: My mom. She passed away when I was 8; by all accounts, she wasn’t much of a cook. I wonder at times what she would think of our Honest Baking endeavor. Also, my dad, who is so supportive whatever crazy pursuit I take on.

Favorite food quote or philosophy you often repeat to yourself?

McDonald: My French pastry chef instructor always reminded us that, what it looks like is secondary; the true test of a successful baked good is taste, which should be undeniably awesome! And yes, my French pastry chef instructor used the word “awesome.”

Skrzynski: For me, cooking and baking are a form of nurturing, so when the “heat is on” I try to remember why I love doing this!

— Reporter: pnakamura@bendbulletin.com

Editor’s note: In the kitchen with features people in the local culinary scene at home in their own kitchens. To suggest someone to profile, contact athome@bendbulletin.com.

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