The Bulletin file photoCrocuses bloom in the early spring.

Looking at the vibrant blooms of purple colchicum (fall blooming crocus) in mid-September reminded me of the joy of seeing bulbs pop up and provide fresh color. We feel triple the excitement at the first show of color in spring-blooming bulbs after months of being color-deprived. Planting bulbs in the fall for spring bloom is the epitome of a gardener’s eternal optimism.

To clarify, colchicum bulbs are planted during their brief dormant period in July and August for a bloom time of mid-September. They remain in the ground and, in the spring, their foliage will appear, but no bloom. The foliage will die back naturally and then, in the fall, quicker than you can blink an eye, the purple five-petal flower will appear. The good news is that they are deer-resistant.

Now is the time to be planting the bulbs we look forward to enjoying in the spring. With research and planning, you can enjoy blooming bulbs for several months.

Many varieties of bulbs are available for early, mid and late bloom. If you were to plan on using all three stages of bloom, it would work well to plant the earliest blooming furthest back, then mid-spring blooming in front of those and the late-blooming to the front of the bed. The dying foliage would be somewhat camouflaged with the freshest blooms.

Selecting bulbs

Bigger is better when selecting bulbs. The bigger the bulb, the bigger the flower. Look for bulbs that feel firm and are unblemished. Remember that bulbs used to force indoors for winter arrangements should also be purchased now.

The red flag is up for planting tulips. If you have problems with deer, cross tulips off your list. They are like candy for the deer. Plant daffodils instead. There are enough varieties to create an interesting and certainly not boring landscape. The deer will walk past, and you will feel that you are in control.

Selecting a site

Site selection is important, and if you have been a discouraged grower, you might review your site. Most bulbs prefer a full-sun planting location. We automatically think of the south side of the house as being a perfect site. That is probably the worst place. The accumulated heat from the foundation and the house siding will result in earlier blooming but will also put the premature emergence of the bulbs at risk of frost damage. Every year, we experience that week of false spring, usually in February or March, followed by the back-to-normal frosty weather.

Plantings of any bulb are more impressive if there are multiple bulbs of the same variety planted in a group rather than planted like soldiers in a straight row.

Planting bulbs in an area of existing perennials is a great idea. Peonies, iris and day lilies make excellent companions for daffodils.

Cut off spent flowers as they begin to die back, or seed production will begin to occur, which robs the bulb of a food source for the next year. At the end of the bulb bloom, the dying yellow foliage will be camouflaged by the new growth of the perennials. It is very important to allow the dying foliage to remain on the plant. It provides the natural food for next season’s bloom.

Bulbs take root best when the soil temperature has cooled down to 40 to 50 degrees.

Purchased bulbs should be kept cool and dry, usually in a paper bag, until planting time. If you miss the window for planting and the soil is much colder, it is still better to plant than to store for another year. Some gardeners plant up to the first frost, although that doesn’t give any time for root development.

Planting your bulbs

The planting area should be weed-free, and adding compost always improves the structure of our soil. There are many commercial bagged composts available at nurseries and garden centers.

The recommended planting depth from bulb tip to soil surface for daffodils is 6 to 7 inches. For early tulips, it’s 6 inches, and for late tulips, it’s 7 inches.

The rule of thumb is that bulbs should be planted at a depth (measured between the tip of the bulb and top of the soil) of four to five times the height of the bulb.

Fertilizer should be mixed into the bottom of the planting area. Commercial bulb fertilizers are complete and balanced and will contain some bone meal, which is high in phosphorous. If you can’t find a dedicated bulb fertilizer, choose a formula that is highest in the second number listed on the package, which is the phosphorous. Existing bulb beds should be fertilized in early spring at the first emergence of the foliage and again after bloom time when the bulbs are storing up food for the following year. Water well.

After we have had a good hard freeze and the ground is frozen, add a covering of mulch. Three to four inches of mulch will keep the bulbs from freezing and thawing.

Add water and wait

There are many spring blooming bulbs to enjoy. Probably the first to bloom would be galanthus, commonly known as snowdrops. Spring crocus and scilla are also early. Muscari, also known as grape hyacinth, is also good for indoor forcing.

Bulbs are about as foolproof as you can get. When you buy them, the first year’s flower is already formed. All you need to do is add water and wait.

— Reporter: douville@bendbroadband.com