Everything about The Meadows at the Lodge is grand. From the massive edifice that lords over the emerald fairways to the sumptuously appointed lobby, bar and dining room inside.

The first thing most diners notice (if they don’t get waylaid by one of the sinfully comfortable overstuffed chairs in front of the fireplace) is the signature view out the west-facing picture windows.

”We have the grandest sunsets in Central Oregon,” said Assistant Manager Sandy Burns. ”With the meadow, the Sunriver Pond and the mountains, it’s incredible.”

The Meadows at the Lodge is upscale but family friendly.

”We are fine dining at its best in Central Oregon,” said Burns. ”Breakfast, lunch and dinner. We’re a 4-star resort. We’re all about pleasing our guests.”

According to Burns, that means stunning views, consistent service and fine cuisine.

Burns, executive chef Richard Dingel and crew are especially proud of the restaurant’s Sunday champagne brunch, served from 8:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. weekly. ”Sunday brunch is killer,” said Burns. ”It’s the best, probably, in Central Oregon.”

The brunch menu differs from week to week but often includes eggs benedict, smoked salmon, corned beef hash, salads and fresh fruit blintzes made to order. There are also carving stations, omelet stations and plenty of salads and traditional Sunriver potatoes.

Diners can also order from the breakfast menu. Choices include the Three Sisters Breakfast (short stack with two eggs and bacon or sausage, $9.75) and apple-walnut pancakes (three pancakes topped with apples and walnuts in a caramel sauce and whipped cream, $8.75).

Sunday brunch is $17.75, or $21.75 with a glass of champagne.

Lunch specialties include the Sage Springs salad (mixed greens with smoked salmon topped with tomato, carrots and red onion with a red wine vinaigrette, $10.50), the portobello sandwich (grilled portobello mushroom served on ciabatta and topped with mixed greens, tomato and provolone cheese, $10.75) and the S.L.T. (smoked salmon, lettuce and tomato on toasted multigrain bread served with Honey-Dijon Kettle Chips, $10.75).

And then, when the sun sets over the Three Sisters, dinner is served.

Diners choose from a wide array of entrees from pork to paella (clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops, rock shrimp and Oregon lamb sausage in a saffron sauce with risotto, $22).

The roasted elk loin is sauteed and pan roasted with a bacon shiitake pinot noir sauce ($31). The Three Sisters is a grilled filet of beef tenderloin and prawns with an Oregon pinot noir glaze and served with a multigrain and dried fruit pilaf and fresh vegetables ($27).

Grilled salmon with a marionberry compote ($22) is also a favorite.

The restaurant also has a full children’s menu.

The Meadows at the Lodge features an extensive wine list highlighting Northwest vintages. It’s won the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence the last five years running.

This month, The Meadows is featuring wines from Chateau Ste. Michelle.

Jim Witty can be reached at 541-617-7828 or jwitty@bendbulletin.com.