Spices, such as oregano, basil and parsley, add flavor to Greek cuisine

Published 5:00 am Tuesday, August 17, 2004

he athletes, of course, get all the attention at the Summer Olympic Games now under way. But even the most serious sports fan could get distracted by the rich culture and beautiful scenery of host country Greece.

Find yourself daydreaming about a Greek vacation? Do the next best thing and enjoy an authentic Greek meal.

”Greek food is healthy, it’s tasty and it’s very good for your body and soul,” said George Papas, a native of Southern Greece who moved to Oregon in the late 1950s. Papas and his wife, Chourisa, run Papas Culinary Enterprises in Portland, a catering service and one of the few Greek cooking schools in the Northwest.

Greeks are passionate about food because it connects them to their families, their country and their religion, Papas said. Mealtime is family time in Greece. ”My family – that’s pretty much all they do is cook food,”

said John Mehas, owner of Demetri’s Greek American Cusina on Bend’s east side – the only Greek restaurant in town.

Instead of waiting for a three-course meal to be served, many Greeks set out all their food at once on a big table for a more festive meal, Mehas said. ”That’s a time when people can sit down and be together. Family is really important to Greeks,” Mehas said.

Many of the Greek food traditions revolve around the Eastern Orthodox church, Papas said. Church members spent days preparing festive meals in between times of fasting.

The cuisine itself is special because of the freshness of the ingredients used, Papas said. Cooks use fresh produce, such as eggplant and zucchini, and many dishes are vegetarian. And while many people think of lamb as a staple of a Greek diet, fresh fish is often used for the main dish, Papas said. The main fat in meals is olive oil and most Greek families either produce their own or buy it from a friend a family member, according to Aglaia Kremezi, author of ”The Foods of Greece.”

”Greek food is simple, down to earth and forgiving, but not plain,” Kremezi wrote. ”It is tied to the natural produce of each region, making the most of it and changes with the seasons.”

Mehas said Greek cuisine is more flavorful than other foods because of the spices used. He uses oregano, basil, white pepper and parsley for many of his dishes at Demetri’s.

”The more flavorful food is, the less you have to eat,” he said.

Breads, such as pita and whole wheat, and hard cheeses also are important parts of the Greek diet. As for dessert, many Greeks will simply eat a piece of fruit an hour after they eat, Papas said.

For special occasions, they indulge in pastries such as baklava, thin leaves of phyllo dough spread with butter and filled with a walnut and spice mixture.

Greeks love a good glass of wine with their meals, Mehas said. Retsina is the most popular Greek wine and carries a strong, piney flavor. For those looking for something stronger, there’s always ouzo.

Those looking to prepare their own authentic Greek meals at home should have patience and help from an expert, Papas and Mehas said. Papas and his wife published their own cookbook, ”Papas’ Art of Traditional Greek Cooking,” which is available in Bend at Demetri’s. He’s always willing to answer questions over the phone from aspiring cooks using his book, he said, and he offers classes in people’s homes.

Of course, you could always find an authentic Greek restaurant and have someone else do the cooking. Mehas was gearing up for increased traffic during the Olympics by bringing in an extra television set and adding specials to the Demetri’s menu. Greek food has become such a hit in Bend that he has plans for a second restaurant on the west side, named Bella’s, to open in the spring.

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