You know that restaurant where the owners themselves greet you at the door, prepare the meal and bring it to your table?

The one that will stay open to accommodate you after a late evening at the theater? The place that doesn’t bother with fusion or pricing meals in less than full-dollar increments?

That restaurant is in downtown Bend.

Under a blue-and-white striped awning, the Bluefish Bistro opened in late August 2004, offering another choice in upscale dining.

Owners Doug Robertson and Shanda Mulder brought to the venture extensive experience in the front of the house. Owner Matt Mulder, a self-described ”hired knife” around town, has a background in French cuisine and brings a classic continental approach to the menu.

”It’s kind of Euro comfort food,” he says.

Despite its name, the bistro has a pretty even split between seafood and meat dishes. For instance, Matt mentions the popular rack of lamb with lobster and halibut in the same breath. ”I go with what I can get fresh,” he says.

The bistro boasts a wine list of roughly 120 choices. Some 20 wines are also available by the glass.

The Bluefish is aiming at those looking for a quality meal in a relaxed atmosphere. But a less formal environment doesn’t mean inattention to detail.

Water comes with fresh mint leaves. Country bread is accompanied by flavored butters, mixed in-house.

Customers have zeroed in on the tender, pan-seared scallops accented with shredded potatoes. For salads, the most popular is the crispy duck confit served over field greens.

Desserts are house-made and include choices such as flourless chocolate torte, flavored cheesecakes and tiramisu.

Shanda adds: ”We always look busy, but walk-ins are always welcome, and even though we are small, we are accommodating.”

– Markian Hawryluk

Bluefish Bistro

Location: 718 N.W. Franklin Ave., Bend

Hours: 5 p.m. till closing, Tuesday through Sunday

Price Range: $6 to $14 for appetizers, $23 to $28 for entrees

Alcoholic Beverages: Beer and wine

Kids’ Menu: Smaller dishes

Reservations: Recommended

Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard

Contact: 330-0663