Get a little sweet on sweet peas

The day after a windstorm blows through, I do a walk-about over my 2 acres. I have a wonderful rock outcropping but it prohibits me from seeing what’s happening on the other side of the rocks. I usually find some cottonwood branches that have completely broken off and a few juniper branches that have suffered enough damage that they will need to be removed.

Thus starts the list of things to do on a warm day. In addition to playing pick-up-sticks, I discovered the big posts that secured the wire fencing that supported the sweet peas toppled over and landed on top of the strawberry box.

Admittedly the posts have probably been in the ground for 50 years, so they had good reason to succumb to a big gust. The dreaded task will be to remove the 10-foot section of the manly-man, heavy gauge wire that is stapled to the post. I’ll need to eat the Wheaties and get out the heavy-duty wire cutters. The wire is stapled to the post, and it may be the staples are so rusted that with one good pull I will be able dislodge the staple and the fencing will miraculously fall away.

Honestly, I’m not looking for sympathy. By way of the written word I’m trying to work my way into some problem-solving. Where am I going to put my sweet pea patch this year, and how am I going to do it?

I certainly have enough pruned branches in my slash pile to make a trellis, or several for that matter, but then where would the quail hide?

Since I have an ample supply of 1-inch white PVC pipe, I could use that to make a framework. I would add a network of interwoven twine for the tendrils to grab onto. That doesn’t sound very glamorous but maybe the blooms would be so lush no one would notice the plastic pipe.

The ultimate would be a trellis made of copper tubing like the ones we see in high-end gardening magazines. But that’s probably a little risky around here since there seems to be a penchant for copper wire. I can just imagine my copper trellis, loaded with rich hues and fragrant blooms, being ripped out of the soil and being sold for drug money. The thought chills me.

Then there is a graveyard under a juniper tree of bent and broken 8-foot lengths of rebar and T-bars. Although they intended to serve their master, they met their demise head-on when they were pounded into the ground and collided with the inevitable boulder. Actually, I have circled the stash several times and I am beginning to think that all lashed together, the outcome might be pretty interesting. The free-form teepee would be original if nothing else, and probably confirm that the neighborhood lady is starting to lose it.

Of course, there are always containers and hanging baskets and varieties of sweet peas that will perform well in both growing environments. These varieties are more diminutive, growing to a height of 8 to 10 inches rather than the 6- to 8-foot varieties.

Every area of the country has its sweet pea planting folklore. Seeds must be planted on St. Patrick’s Day, some say Good Friday (that changes every year), and mild climates can plant in the fall. Some say to soak in milk, others say water. Some vow the soaking has to be at least 36 hours, others say no longer than an hour. Hands go up in the air with a ”no, no, no,” don’t soak, instead barely nick the seed with a nail clipper to allow moisture to enter.

Since I have to change the location, I decided to change the procedure and try something new.

I’ve done the soaking in both water and milk for varying lengths of time. This year I tried the nail clippers. I had visions of chasing rolling sweet pea seeds around the table but it actually worked very well. You just need to break the hard outer shell a tad.

In the past I have direct seeded, usually about the middle of April. This year I started the seeds in the house on March 1. I will pinch out the center growth to encourage side growth when the plants reach 3-4 inches and will continue to pinch out to encourage the side growth until I plant outside. The trick will be to keep the growing environment about 50 degrees while they are in the house, plus they will need strong light. A sunny windowsill in an unheated garage or a sunny unheated bedroom would do, too.

Not having started sweet pea seeds in the house before, it is hard to predict when I will plant them out. Sweet peas can withstand a light frost, and if I feel concerned, I can add a frost blanket for protection. My purpose is to enjoy fragrant blooms before August. I remember, years ago, a house in Redmond on the garden tour that had a breathtaking wall of hundreds of sweet peas in bloom. The garden tour is always held the third Saturday of July, so I know it is possible; I just have to find the right combinations of timing.

Adequate water is critical to success in all stages of growth – germination, seedlings and actively growing vines, according to sweet pea expert Renee Shepherd. Push your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle. If it is dry, water. Mulching is also important.

Sweet peas are heavy feeders and should be planted in well-prepared, compost-rich soil in a sunny location. Shepherd recommends fertilizing twice during the growing season using a soil drench of one tablespoon each of fish emulsion and liquid kelp diluted in a gallon of water. If growing in containers, fertilize every two weeks.

Aphids can be a problem. Wash them off with blasts of water. Good air circulation and avoiding watering late in the day will help to prevent mildew.

If all goes well the last step is to pick, pick, pick. The more you pick the more blooms you will get and the longer the plants will continue to bloom before they end their life cycle by going to seed.