Another taste of Italy

Published 5:00 am Friday, July 25, 2008

”Bella cucina” is Italian for “beautiful kitchen” or, more idiomatically, “good food.” In recent visits to the two Bella Cucina Italian Cafes in Bend and Sunriver, my meals were sometimes very good but occasionally disappointing.

Indeed, both restaurants, particularly the one in The Old Mill District, were notable mainly for the inconsistent quality of their food and service.

More than two years have passed since Bella Cucina (then under different ownership) relocated to the Old Mill from the gray-stone building at Third Street and Franklin Avenue that has housed several different restaurants (including Healy’s and Mexicali Rose). The cafe has had moderate success at the Old Mill, offering reasonably priced pastas and pizzas along with breakfasts and a handful of dinner entrees.

I didn’t try the breakfast, although I have heard good things about the Italian breakfast wrap, the cafe’s $8 take on a breakfast burrito. Instead, I focused on lunch and dinner.

A lunch in Bend

Located opposite Anthony’s at the Old Mill and the footbridge to the Les Schwab Amphitheater, Bend’s Bella Cucina is most readily spotted by passers-by for its outdoor dining section, seating 30 at eight tables.

Inside are another four tables and five booths accommodating up to 34 more. Original oils hang on walls painted burgundy and ochre. The strains of contemporary rock music bounce off a concrete floor.

There’s a bar where espresso drinks and fresh fruit smoothies are blended, and behind it, an open kitchen.

Service on my midday visit was friendly, but not exactly prompt, in spite of the fact that only one other table was occupied. After I placed my order, I waited 10 minutes to be presented with so-so foccaccia and a dish of balsamic vinegar floating on mediocre olive oil. But I had no time to indulge in the bread, as my cup (actually a small bowl) of soup arrived almost immediately.

The minestrone was not very good. It had a bitter taste that I couldn’t put my finger on. Perhaps the cook was heavy-handed with vinegar. Otherwise, I’m sure this would have been an excellent vegetarian concoction, filled with onions, carrots, zucchini, celery, coarsely chopped garlic and white beans, and with an overly generous sprinkling of Italian herbs.

The lasagna was not the best I’ve had, but it was far from the worst. Spicy Italian sausage, both sliced and minced, was layered between lasagna noodles, ricotta cheese and spinach. It was topped with marinara sauce and melted mozzarella, then sprinkled with parsley.

A dinner in Bend

Both the food and the service were better when I returned for an evening meal and sat outside in the warmth of summer twilight.

A Caesar salad, included with my entree order, was crispy and garlicky, with a light dressing and a good amount of shredded Parmesan cheese on top.

My clam entree was a revelation. Imagine 58 littleneck clams (yes, I counted them) served on a bed of linguine, doused in a broth of butter, white wine, roasted lemon and garlic, dusted with red chile flakes. Perhaps only in an aquarium have I ever seen so many clams in one place in my life. I can highly recommend this entree to clam lovers.

Service was casual but good. My server checked back regularly to make sure I was happy with my meal, except at the very end, when the time came for me to pay my check. I stepped inside to do so.

A lunch in Sunriver

Recently moved from Building 3 to Building 4 in the Sunriver Village Mall, to the restaurant space formerly occupied by Sushimoto and Barking Squirrel, Sunriver’s Bella Cucina is adjusting to its new quarters. There’s more indoor seating, with tables flanking a former sushi bar and a separate upstairs room, but only four tables outside for patio dining.

My lunch here, however, was much better than my lunch in the Old Mill District. For starters, even my square of foccaccia — soft with a crispy crust, baked with rosemary — was tastier.

A plate of pasta Milano was excellent. Bow-tie pasta, cooked just past al dente, was tossed with sun-dried tomatoes and big pieces of chicken breast. It was covered in a minced garlic-cream sauce and sprinkled with parsley. I would gladly order this again.

There seemed to be some confusion when I entered the restaurant, as three employees were talking and one finally noticed me standing, waiting to be received. But once I was seated, service was excellent from start to finish.

RECENT REVIEWS

Brickhouse Steak and Raw Bar (A-): Named for the handsome brick walls and arches of the historic building it has taken over, downtown Redmond’s finest restaurant offers top-quality beef, fresh wild-caught seafood and knowledgeable service. A wonderful caprese salad is a good way to work into the exquisite steak menu. Open 4 p.m. to close Tuesday to Saturday. 412 S.W. Sixth St., Redmond; 526-1782, www.brickhouseredmond.com.

Big Island Kona Mix Plate (B+): A transplant from the island of Hawaii, this casual and friendly restaurant offers island flavor in its traditional plate lunches from the first “aloha.” Chicken and beef dishes are tender and tasty. Open 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday to Saturday. 61470 S. U.S. Highway 97 (Reed Lane Plaza), Bend; 633-7368, www.konamix plate.com.

Bella Cucina Italian Cafe

Location: 450 S.W. Powerhouse Dr., Suite 400 (Shops at the Old Mill District), Bend. Also in Sunriver Village Mall, Building 4, Sunriver.

Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day

Price range: Breakfast $5 to $7, lunch $5 to $9, dinner appetizers $7 to $10, entrees $10 to $15

Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Children’s menu: Yes

Alcoholic beverages: Wine and beer

Reservations: Recommended for dinner

Contact: 385-7774 (Bend), 593-6440 (Sunriver), www.bellacucinacafe.com

Scorecard

OVERALL: B

Food: B. Inconsistent. Try the clam linguine or the pasta Milano.

Service: B. Casual but not always prompt, especially in Bend.

Atmosphere: B. Industrial chic but nondescript; outdoor seating may be preferred.

Value: B. Prices aren’t outrageous, but there are no real bargains, either.