Star watchers know the Pleiades. The brightest and best-known open star cluster in the northern heavens, these “Seven Sisters” rest on a shoulder of the constellation Taurus (“the bull”), forever pursued by Orion (“the hunter”). In Greek mythology, they were the daughters of Atlas and Pleione, and their names have been bestowed upon the most brilliant stars in the cluster, all of them easily seen by the naked eye.

Star power, however, has not carried into Pleaides at FivePine. Since opening in March, the restaurant at the FivePine Lodge and Conference Center in Sisters (there is a certain symmetry to putting the “Seven Sisters” near the Three Sisters) has struggled with consistency.

Under founding executive chef David Berger, who also managed the resort’s banquet and catering kitchen, Pleiades (pronounced PLAY-ah-dees) was known as a creditable fine-dining restaurant. But Berger’s managerial responsibilities kept him out of the kitchen, where he is at his best. Now he has left the resort to explore other culinary options, and Greg Unruh, co-founder of Cork in downtown Bend, has stepped in to replace him.

“We got really lucky,” said Tate Metcalf, a co-owner of Pleiades and majority owner of the adjacent Sisters Athletic Club. “The timing was impeccable for both parties. Greg sold his share of Cork in May, and he’s had some time to fish and ride his bike this summer. Now he’s joining us as interim manager and executive chef to get us in the direction that we want to go.”

The result, Metcalf predicts, will be stellar.

Outdoors and indoors

I visited Pleiades twice before Unruh joined the staff. I found the place to dine (during warm weather, at least) is on the brick patio, which seats 32 guests at lawn tables shaded by umbrellas. It extends into the grassy central park area at the heart of the FivePine resort complex.

Another 72 diners are accommodated indoors at booths and tables. With the exception of its central ceiling, whose twinkling lights against a dark background look like stars on a moonless Central Oregon night, the large room is understated in terms of decor. The color palette is subdued: beige with dark brown accents, plus polished-wood beams, pillars and buttresses.

A series of windows lines the front wall; elsewhere, lighting is from simple ranch-style chandeliers, sconces and hanging lights. A stone fireplace provides winter warmth near the bar, where about eight stools seat imbibers.

Busy at work in this space is a service staff clad in black. The servers are mainly young and, I sense, inexperienced, but they are hardworking and eager to please.

Especially at my dinner visit to Pleiades, plates were slow in coming and refills of my water glass were slower still. (I had to ask twice, and the second time, the refill never arrived.) But so charming were the people waiting on me, I found the transgressions forgivable.

Good dinner

My main complaints about Pleiades are that the food doesn’t consistently deliver what it promises, and although portions are generous, prices are clearly on the high side.

Dinner was better than lunch. It started with fresh, warm whole-wheat bread, thinly sliced, and creamy butter.

Next, I opted for a tomato-basil-mozzarella salad. This was much like a traditional Italian caprese salad but with the addition of grilled onions and asparagus. Salads come in either small or large sizes; this was a small, but it was more than enough for one.

Good-sized Roma tomatoes and mozzarella cheese were diced and sliced, layered with three or four fresh basil leaves and doused in what the menu called a “pesto vinaigrette.” I called it too much olive oil. The flavor was good, but the salad threatened to float away.

I ordered my entree, sea scallops Wellington, from the appetizer side of the menu, and I was pleased, even though the otherwise golden-brown puff-pastry shell was partially burned. The baked pastry, painted with mushroom duxelle (a buttery paste with shallots and herbs), encased two large Pacific scallops.

Although I couldn’t taste the white truffle oil specified in the menu, I didn’t miss it — I think truffle oil might have clashed with the delicious Oregon peach creme fraiche in which the scallops were served. I thought I also tasted strawberries in this sauce, which was accompanied with fresh peach slices, a delicious complement to the scallops.

The Wellington was served with a side salad of baby greens with halved cherry tomatoes. I was glad to have had the faux-caprese, as these greens were tired.

Forgettable lunch

I was less pleased with my soup-and-sandwich lunch at Pleiades than I had been with my dinner.

The soup du jour, on the day of my midday visit, was a cream-based tomato basil potage. Tomatoes, artichoke hearts, onions and garlic were all finely diced but not pureed, then topped with a melt of Parmesan cheese. The result was a hearty, stew-like vegetable soup. Had I not found it overly salty, I’m sure I would have enjoyed it more.

My Reuben sandwich fell far short of my expectations, certainly for its $12.50 price tag. It was thick enough — half-inch layers of sauerkraut and corned beef, topped with Swiss cheese and stone-ground mustard — but it lacked the Thousand Island-style dressing that I’ve come to expect with a Reuben.

The prototypical Reuben is presented on sourdough rye bread. Pleiades’ version came in a hamburger-style bun of marbled rye, which was warm but not grilled. The cheese, as a result, did not melt into the meat; it was a mere slice of Swiss tossed on top of the beef.

I took note that Pleiades has a nice little wine list: 40-plus Oregon, Washington and California vintages with a good by-the-glass selection. The restaurant also has a full bar.

“We look forward to capturing the local market a little more,” Metcalf said. “We want to focus on early-bird or happy-hour specials. Many people want an early dinner before a movie, or a light meal after a workout at the club. That means we’ll probably add some smaller plate portions and healthier fare.”

To get to Pleiades from Bend, look for the first driveway to the left past the Sisters Movie House. Take an immediate left on Desperado Trail, the byway that also leads to the Sisters Athletic Club, the Shibui Spa and the new Three Creeks Brewing Co. Pleiades is in the second building on the right.

RECENT REVIEWS

Sumi’s Japanese Restaurant (C+): This full-service cafe serving all manner of Japanese food, from noodle dishes to tempura and sushi, is a well-maintained space with a breezy outdoor patio. Service is friendly but often very slow; many of the dishes are mediocre at best. Teriyaki chicken is a good choice here. Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday, dinner 5 to 9 p.m. every day. 1444 N.W. College Way, Bend; 541-385-9191, www.sumis restaurant.com.

Fireside red (A-): Creative, internationally inspired preparations of tapas, or small plates, include pan-roasted kangaroo loin at dinner and a macadamia-crusted mahi mahi pita at lunch. Service at the casually elegant restaurant ranks with the best in Central Oregon, and a wonderful deck overlooks the Deschutes River. Open 11 a.m. to close Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to close Sunday; dinner from 4:30 p.m. 803 S.W. Industrial Way, Suite 202, Bend; 541-306-3121, www.firesidered.com.

Pleiades at FivePine

Location: 1011 Desperado Trail, Sisters

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day (dinner from 4:30 p.m.)

Price range: Luncheon salads $6 to $14, sandwiches $10.50 to $15; dinner appetizers $11.50 to $13, entrees $18.50 to $34.50

Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Children’s menu: Yes

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Reservations: Recommended

Contact: 541-588-6151, www.pleiadesatfivepine.com

Scorecard

OVERALL: B

Food: B. Some good dishes, like scallops Wellington, but preparation is inconsistent.

Service: B+. Young and perhaps inexperienced but hard-working and eager to please.

Atmosphere: B. Subdued colors and understated decor are offset by fine outdoor patio area.

Value: B. Although portions are generous, prices are on the high side.