From left: Forelle, Bosc, red Bartlett and Bartlett pears.

Curvaceous, sweet, in an array of colors from bright green to tawny red to sunset yellow and with an unusual texture that changes as it ripens, the pear may be one of the most beautiful and satisfying of winter fruits.

Pears are versatile, a tasty addition to salads, main dishes or desserts, and they are a good source of vitamin C, providing 10 percent of the daily requirement. They’re also an excellent source of fiber, providing 24 percent of the daily requirement.

Most common varieties of pears originated in Europe, specifically France and Belgium, which is one reason pears are a favorite ingredient in French cuisine. At Pastiche Bistro and Wine Bar, a French-style cafe in Milwaukee’s Bay View neighborhood, chef-owner Michael Engel is definitely a fan, describing the pear’s unique taste and texture as “unctuous” or buttery, setting the pear above its more pedestrian companion winter fruit, the apple.

“Pears have a distinct mouth-feel,” he says. “Apples are kind of boring that way; they always feel the same. A pear will move around in your mouth a little, and you’ll taste different things, just like a good wine.”

So if they’re so great, why aren’t we eating pears all the time?

Self-professed “pear nerd” Cristie Mather, director of communications at Pear Bureau Northwest, the collective of 1,600 growers in Oregon and Washington that produces 84 percent of the nation’s pears, thinks part of the answer is in the fruit’s distinction as a “treat.”

“They’re not seen as an everyday fruit. They’re exalted,” she says. “People think, ‘Oh, that’s for special occasions.’”

Is it ripe?

A more likely reason is the pear’s state of ripeness when purchased. Pears are picked “green” and must sit out on the counter for a day or two, or longer, to reach peak ripeness. This delayed gratification makes it difficult to plan a meal around pears if the dish depends on the pear being perfectly ripe.

For impatient cooks, however, an advantage of pears is they can be used in certain recipes before they are ripe and still produce fine taste.

Underripe pears can be poached in simple syrup, left plain or favored with sweet spices, and emerge with their characteristically smooth texture.

Served with a bit of whipped cream, ice cream or caramel sauce, the poached pear is an elegant dessert — and takes less than half an hour. What’s more, poached pears are almost impossible to ruin, given the fruit’s stable culinary properties.

The best way to test for ripeness is to apply gentle pressure to the neck of the pear, Mather says. If it yields, then the pear is ready to eat. Pears ripen from the inside out; waiting until the body of the pear is soft will mean the pear is overripe for eating, but it may still be suitable for some cooking applications.

Mather points out that the pear’s tardiness to ripen is a boon for the purposes of storage and contributes to its relatively long season — from September through February for most varieties and almost year-round in the case of red and green D’Anjou pears.

“Pears are very sensitive to cold,” Mather says. “They only begin to convert their starches to sugar when they reach a specific core temperature (32 degrees). So if you purchase underripe pears in the grocery store and take them home and put them in the refrigerator, they are not going to ripen.”

On the other hand, once the pears ripen, they can be placed in the fridge to retard the process and extend their shelf life.

A guide to pears

A pear is a pear is a pear, is it not? Would a pear by any other name taste as sweet? Yes and yes. While most varieties of pears can be substituted with success in recipes, each kind has its own properties that are helpful to know when shopping.

Dates in parentheses indicate when the variety is in season.

• D’Anjou (September — July)Green D’Anjou pears, recognized by their egg-like shape, stay green when fully ripe. With moist, sweet and dense flesh, the D’Anjou is excellent for snacking or baking.

• Red D’Anjou (September — May)Sweet and succulent when ripe, red D’Anjou pears are similar to their green counterparts. The red skin is a colorful addition to salads, desserts and main dishes.

• Bartlett (August — February)The Bartlett pear turns from bright green to golden yellow as it ripens. Very juicy and sweet, with aromatic flesh, it is used most for canning and for salads or desserts.

• Red Bartlett (August — January)The Red Bartlett turns bright red as it ripens and is similar in flavor and texture to the yellow Bartlett.

• Bosc (September — April)Bosc pears have long, tapered necks and skin that is naturally russet to a cinnamon brown. Dense, fragrant, and honey-sweet flesh with a texture that holds its shape when heated, the Bosc is a good choice for baking, poaching, grilling and roasting.

• Comice (September — March)Comice (pronounced “co-meece”) pears have a full, round shape with a short neck and stem, and are usually green, sometimes with a red blush. They are very succulent, with a custard-like texture and mellow sweetness. They are best as an eating pear and go well with cheese. They don’t hold up well in cooking.

• Concorde (September — February)Introduced within the last 10 years, the Concorde has a tall, elongated neck and firm, dense flesh, with skin that is golden green, usually with golden yellow russets. Its flavor has vanilla undertones and, like the Bosc, it has a firm texture that holds up well when baking, grilling or poaching.

• Forelle (October — March)The Forelle, known for its smaller size and unique yellow-green skin, is tasty sweet with a crisp texture even when ripe. Ideal for kids’ lunches and baked desserts.

• Seckel (September — February)Seckel pears are another small variety, recognized by their maroon skin, with olive-green coloring. With their crunchy flesh and ultra-sweet flavor, they are great for snacks, pickling or garnishing.

• Starkrimson (August — January)Starkrimson pears, another new variety introduced within the past 10 years, have a brilliant crimson red skin and a thick, stocky stem. Juicy and sweet, Starkrimsons have smooth flesh and a distinct floral aroma. Cristie Mather of the Pear Bureau Northwest says this pear was a big hit with food writers at a recent conference.

Source: Pear Bureau Northwest