Cooking with a cast iron pan can increase the amount of iron absorbed into food, and therefore, one’s diet.

The catch is that cast iron pans can require more oil — fat — in the cooking process, so food doesn’t stick to the pan.

The quantity of iron one gets from cooking in cast iron can’t be generalized, said Garrett Berdan, a registered dietitian, culinary educator and consultant in Bend, because it depends on the food’s acidity and the time the food spends in contact with the iron pan.

The Journal of the American Dietetic Association published an article in 1986 looking at a variety of foods cooked in cast iron. Acidic foods, such as tomato sauce, showed the highest absorption of iron, from 0.35 mg in its uncooked form to 7.38 mg once cooked in iron. Apple sauce’s iron content jumped from 0.61 mg to 5.77 mg, after being cooked in cast iron, Berdan said.

Lower-acid foods, like eggs, aren’t going to soak up much iron from the pan, he said.

But saute some chicken breasts and create a pan sauce with tomatoes, wine, vinegar or orange juice, and that acidic liquid base will pick up the iron, he said. (A classic, spring recipe he recommends is Chicken Piccata. See recipe.)

St. Charles Bend registered dietitian RanDee Anshutz said people who don’t get enough iron in their diets, or who are anemic, could benefit from cooking with iron. But, “if a person has a condition called hemochromatosis, basically excess iron buildup in the blood stream, they would not benefit from this and should avoid it,” she said.

As for the extra oil question: Anshutz said a pan that’s not in its finest form will require the use of more fat or oil to cook. “The key to using cast iron pans without the excess fat concern is to have a pan that’s in good condition, with no pits, cracks, dents, etc., in the pan,” she said. “By seasoning the pan well initially and proper care thereafter, the pan will actually be fairly nonstick and a lot of oil will not be necessary. A little bit of cooking spray should actually work fine in a well-seasoned cast iron pan that is in good condition.”

Seasoning a pan, Berdan said, protects the iron from rusting and cultivates a nonstick surface.

“The best way to season a cast iron pan is to smear the inside floor and sides of the pan with lard and place in a 200 degree oven for two to three hours,” he said.

Does it have to be lard? “I know, right? LARD? Unfortunately, yes, because it is more stable in the prolonged heat for seasoning. Actually, I bet coconut oil would work well. … Most resources say not to use liquid oils because they are unstable, they get sticky, and they could smoke.”

Once the lard has baked for a couple of hours, remove the pan, let it cool, and wipe out all of the excess fat with paper towels. Or, he said, ask your grandma how she did it.

Caring for the cast iron pan comes with rules, too: Clean the pan only with warm water and just a touch of soap only when absolutely necessary.

“Too much soap and scrubbing can wear off the seasoning. An iron pan can be re-seasoned,” he said. “Thrift stores are a great place to find pans in good enough shape to re-season and use.”

Chicken Piccata (not pictured)

2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut in half and butterflied or pounded

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Flour, for dredging

6 TBS unsalted butter

5 TBS extra-virgin olive oil

1⁄3 C fresh lemon juice

1⁄2 C chicken stock

1⁄4 C capers

1⁄3 C fresh parsley, chopped

Dust the chicken with salt and pepper and dredge it through the flour.

Melt half of the butter and olive oil in a cast iron pan, then cook half of the chicken until its browned on each side. Transfer it to a plate and repeat the same directions with the remaining butter, oil and chicken.

Mix lemon juice, stock and capers in the pan and bring it to a boil. Put all the chicken back into the mixture and simmer for five minutes. Remove the chicken when it’s cooked and place in serving dish. Whisk the sauce left in the pan and then pour it over the chicken, and garnish with parsley.

— Adapted from a recipe on www.foodnetwork.com