Get more mileage from your footwear
Published 5:00 am Wednesday, August 3, 2011
As wallet-tightening has become more widespread, we’ve learned that reusing, recycling and repurposing doesn’t just do a solid for the environment — it works wonders for your budget, too. This is especially true when it comes to shoes — giving old ones a new life reduces waste and keeps you from having to pay for (and break in) a brand-new pair.
But finding a good cobbler can be as tricky finding a good doctor. Bedside manner is important, as is an ability to diagnose and fix the problem. In both cases, if all goes well, you won’t have to make many return visits.
To help you find the ideal shoe savior, we talked with cobblers from small- and large-scale operations and experts in the shoe-care industry. Here are their tips on what to look for, what to avoid and what you’ll pay for the perfect pair.
The bottom line
Find a cobbler who will work with you and be upfront about what can be done for your shoes. Ask to see past work to gauge quality. Take advantage of the convenience of high-volume mail-in operations, which offer better access to authentic materials and specialty services.
Do’s and don’ts
Look for clues about customer service before you choose a cobbler. “Ask if you can take a look at a shoe they’ve fixed already,” said Joe Stern, a third-generation shoe guru at Cobbler’s Bench in suburban Washington. “If they say no, that’s a red flag.” April Cassell of Resole America in Warrenton, Va., echoes Stern. “You’re looking for a willingness to do something special — maybe you like the shoe but want to make it more comfortable — so you want a cobbler who’s willing to work with you.”
Don’t assume that dry cleaners and cobblers are interchangeable. “It’s not that you can’t find someone at a dry cleaner,” Cassell said. “It’s that they do a little bit of everything — some tailoring, some dry cleaning, some shoe repair. With a cobbler, shoes are all he does.” If you opt for a dry cleaner, ask whether they have a cobbler on staff or will outsource the job. If you need special work or difficult repairs, you’ll want to visit a cobbler.
Be sure to ask if the replacement materials will be the same as the originals.” A lot of people just drop off a shoe and don’t realize what they’re getting back — you might get cheap parts, or a different look or feel,” Cassell said.
Summer is a slow season for cobblers, so take advantage of faster turnaround by repairing your winter shoes now.
Check websites and deal aggregators for coupons. The Cobbler’s Bench Web site regularly offers discounts, including a current deal for $3 to $10 off heels and soles.
Got sticker shock? Consider the initial value of the shoes plus the value of the repairs. “Replacing full soles on men’s shoes runs from $62 to $85, and people say, ‘Well, I only paid $85 for them,’” Stern said. “But put on the new leather sole and replace the welt, and you just turned them into a $300 pair of Allen Edmonds.” If you snagged high-end shoes on sale and you love them, then resoling is the way to go; if you’ve worn out a cheap pair, it won’t save you much in the long run.
In between visits, use waxes, creams and leather conditioners to keep your shoes in top shape. Most important, keep them free of dust, which, Stern says, “pulls moisture out of the leather.” He suggests Meltonian shoe creams, Urad leather conditioner and Lincoln or Angelus polishes and waxes.
Neighborhood shop vs. national service
Although the number of traditional shoe repair shops has dwindled, more outposts are taking orders by mail to fill the gap. Whether you opt for a small-time cobbler or a high-volume repair warehouse, the process is standard: Call or e-mail to request an order form and mailing supplies, or print an order form and shipping label online. Allow time for shipping, roughly a week to repair the shoes, and a few more days for return shipping.
While the cost of two-way shipping might be off-putting for some, the convenience and high-quality results of mail-in orders can justify the expense. In the case of Resole America, it costs $24 to $34 for round-trip shipping, depending on your location.
If you’d rather find a local cobbler, keep the dos and don’ts in mind, and ask whether the repairs can be done in-house. If not, you might end up saving on expensive outsourcing costs by going with a mail-in service. If you don’t have time to visit a local repair shop, some of them take mail-in orders.
What you’ll pay
Although costs vary by area, cobbler and type of repair, here are our experts’ estimates on common repairs.
For women
Heel tips: $12
Heel replacement: $11-$20
Resoling and heel tips: $45-$55
Elastic strap replacement: $30
For Men
Heels: $20-$30
Half soles: $50
Half soles and heels: $60
Full soles: $55-$85
Lifts: $50 for the first quarter-inch and $10 for each additional quarter-inch