Is there a better gauge of America’s mood right now than the surge in bologna?

We should have expected it, of course: Bologna sales went up almost 125 percent in June 2009, the year following the start of the current tough economy.

Maybe it’s about time. In America, bologna doesn’t get much respect. Even its name has become slang for something that isn’t real.

That’s a shame. Really, bologna is an Americanized version of Italian mortadella, a specialty of — of course — the city of Bologna.

In Bologna, mortadella is an art, says Joseph Bonaparte, director of curriculum for the Art Institute and a certified master of regional Italian cuisine.

Real mortadella dates to the ancient Romans. The name comes from the mortar and pestle used to grind the meat into a paste and the myrtle that originally seasoned it.

Finding good-quality bologna can take a little looking. In a supermarket, try the deli case instead of the lunch meat case.

Grilled Mortadella Packets

Makes 6 servings

12 thin slices of mortadella

12 ounces fresh goat cheese

12 basil leaves

3 C packed baby arugula

2 TBS extra-virgin olive oil

1 TBS red wine vinegar

Salt

Place 4 slices of the mortadella on a work surface. Spoon some cheese in the center of each and top with a basil leaf. Fold the mortadella over the cheese, folding in the sides to form a packet, and secure it with toothpicks. Repeat with the remaining mortadella, cheese and basil.

Heat a grill or preheat a grill pan. Grill the mortadella packets over high heat for about 1 minute per side, until they are lightly charred and the cheese has melted. Discard the toothpicks.

Toss the arugula with the olive oil and vinegar and season with salt. Transfer to a platter. Arrange the packets around the arugula and serve right away.