Recently I was with a group of relatively new gardeners to Central Oregon. We did the collective moaning and groaning over the limitations of trying to create the gardens of our past lives. It was agreed that Central Oregon was a great place to live, offering gardeners the challenge of learning new plants and methods.

The subject of shade and how to create an interesting landscape always begs for an answer, especially with housing being developed in the more treed areas west of Bend. I am finding even in my own landscape the canopies of mature trees are encroaching little by little into the full sun areas. I appreciate the added shade on a hot summer day, but it also means I have to start moving perennials and rethinking where I will plant annuals.

Shade should be viewed as a more positive than negative factor. It helps lower temperature and helps create those welcome cool breezes on a hot summer day. It can provide a sanctuary for quiet reading or a spot for an afternoon summer catnap.

All shade is not equal. Taking time to chart shade and sun areas several times during the day will help give you a better understanding of how to manage the area.

Light shade can be described as an area that is shaded but bright. The sun may be blocked for several hours at midday, but the area may be sunny the rest of the day.

Partial or medium shade is present when direct sun rays are blocked from an area most of the day. The area may receive some direct sun early or late in the day.

Full shade lasts all day. Little or no direct sunlight reaches the ground at any time of the day. There may be reflected light from sunnier areas of the yard or off light-colored walls.

Dry shade occurs where the trees’ thick canopies, either evergreen or deciduous, keep rain or sprinkler water from reaching the ground. Dry shade areas benefit from using a soaker hose or other close-to-the-ground system.

Plant textures, forms and slight color differences become crucial elements when designing in the shade.

Upright columnar plant forms serve best as accents in the shade. Rounded, weeping or spreading forms create a more spacious effect.

Adding plants with glossy leaves tends to have more impact than velvety or dull-leaved plants. Variegated or yellow-green foliage rather than solid green or blue-green foliage stands out in the shade garden.

Light colors such as white, cream, yellow and pastels are more noticeable in the shade, especially from a distant view. Deep reds, purples and blues may fade into the shade unless backed or set off by a contrasting lighter color.

Start rethinking your shady area by observing what’s already there. A healthy lawn is a sign you have lots of options. If grass is thriving, many other plants will grow as well.

A sparse lawn, a stubby looking shrub, or a weedy ground cover shows that something can survive under a tree but will need some TLC to improve the soil conditions. Good compost and monitoring the water will be key to success.

Totally bare ground under a tree usually means the soil is poor and riddled with tree roots and that the tree casts a dense shade. You could call in a licensed arborist to prune to reduce the shade and open up the canopy. An easier solution and far less expensive would be to design the area as your little retreat sanctuary. A comfy seating area with an array of shade loving plants in colorful containers could be an inviting focal point.

Many ground covers do well in shady areas and under the juniper trees. They usually are invasive, which could be good or bad, and the areas will need compost prior to planting. Creeping Jenny is one of the favorites of a friend with a very shady backyard. Also on her list of perennial ground covers are vinca minor, sweet woodruff, lamium and the creeping thymes.

Bugleweed, Ajuga reptans, is a popular and useful perennial ground cover that spreads through runners making a mat of dark green leaves. Short spikes of blue flowers bloom during the summer. New varieties are being developed, the “Chip” series that are more compact than the older strains and show resilience that makes them good for light foot traffic. Oregon grape, repens, throws the same bright yellow blooms that the tall variety exhibits and does well on a low water schedule.

My favorite shade-loving-perennials are the varieties of the hardy perennial geranium commonly known as cranesbills. Cranesbills are real troopers in our climate. Most varieties have deeply lobed leaves and show color tints in the fall. Blooms are delicate and rise above the leaves. Plant varieties range from 6 inches to 2 feet.

Bleeding heart, hostas, columbine, heuchera, lady’s mantle, ferns and Jack Frost Brunnera are just a few of the perennials that will do well in varying degrees of shade.

Annuals that would be happy in the shade include tuberous begonias, impatiens, lobelia, forget-me-nots, fuchsia and coleus.

The suggested plantings are just a sampling of what is available at local nurseries and garden centers. For suggested shade plantings of Oregon native plants, check with our local native plant nurseries.