Keeping your grill clean and safe for summer

Published 5:00 am Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Q: How should I deep-clean my grill?

A: A dirty grill puts you at risk for frequent flare-ups caused by grease and grime, so do an annual deep-cleaning before grilling season. You’ll need rubber gloves, a putty knife, a sponge and a stainless-steel grill brush to get started. Jamie Purviance, author of “Weber’s New Real Grilling,” and Steven Raichlen, who wrote “The Barbecue Bible,” help us break down the cleaning process for gas and charcoal grills.

Gas grill how-to

1. Unhook the gas line; remove all grates.

2. Wearing rubber gloves and using a putty knife, scrape off any grease and carbonized food inside the cookbox. Wash the cookbox and drip pan using a sponge with water and dish soap; clean the inside of the lid.

3. Discard the drip pan’s foil liner, and scrape away any debris. Replace the liner (do this monthly to prevent flare-ups).

4. Rinse everything with a hose.

5. If the holes in the cookbox’s burner tubes are clogged, use a grill brush to clean them, scrubbing across the tube openings. If the blockage is deeper inside the tube, excavate it with an unbent coat hanger.

6. Tackle any metal bars above the burner tubes with the grill brush, then put back the cooking grates and reattach the gas line.

7. Turn all burners to high and close the lid. Wait until the temperature hits 500 degrees, about 15 minutes, then scrape the grates with the grill brush. Wear oven mitts.

Charcoal grill how-to

1. Remove both grates. Using the grill’s ash sweeper, push ashes and food into the ash catcher; discard debris.

2. Scrub inside the grill’s bowl using a grill brush with water and dish soap.

3. Replace the charcoal grate. Fill the grill’s bottom with charcoal and light it. Replace the cooking grate.

4. With the lid off, preheat the grill to 500 degrees, about 15 minutes. Scrape with the grill brush. Wear oven mitts.

Growing blueberries

Q: The blueberry bushes on Martha’s farm are quite large. How does she grow and care for them?

A: The size of a blueberry bush depends mostly on the species. At Martha’s Bedford farm, you can find tall varieties such as ‘Darrow,’ ‘Chandler’ and ‘Jersey.’ She also grows ‘Bluegold’ and ‘Patriot,’ which aren’t known for their size but do produce a great deal of fruit.

Blueberry bushes are low maintenance; most of the work is done up front when planting them, and this time of year is best. Fertilizing the soil will encourage growth. Martha fertilizes the bushes once or twice a year, in either spring or fall, with superphosphate, which promotes plant growth and health, and with sulfur, which adds acidity to the soil, helping blueberry plants grow. Another option: Mix in organic material that’s high in acidity, such as peat moss, decomposed leaves or pine bark, to raise soil acidity, says Barbara Damrosch, co-author of “The Four Season Farm Gardener’s Cookbook.” Consult your local cooperative extension office (csrees.usda.gov/extension) about having your soil tested if you suspect it is especially low in acidity. After planting, mulch with bark, leaves or pine needles. For extra nutrients, top-dress the soil with compost or manure tea once the plants have blossomed.

Water blueberry bushes only when the soil is dry. The addition of compost will naturally keep plants moist in dry conditions and will help soil drain properly when it’s wet.

Prune the bushes once annually to allow light and air to penetrate. Martha thins out her bushes in early spring, when they are still leafless. Cut out dead stems, long stems without many buds and older stems that are no longer producing much fruit.

Marketplace