Don’t come to the River Mill Grill expecting gourmet food. That’s not what Axel Hoch’s new restaurant is all about.

“We didn’t want to be fine dining,” said Mark Perry, Hoch’s business partner and chef de cuisine. “We wanted to be straightforward and affordable.”

That does not mean the cuisine served here is less than quality. Quite to the contrary. On two recent visits to the restaurant in Bend’s Mill Quarter, I was very pleased with the food, the service and especially the moderate prices.

And the location — in the former digs of Fireside red, which closed in early May — is among the best in Central Oregon. The grill’s beautiful deck, overlooking the Deschutes River, is a wonderful place for a sunset dinner during the warmer months of the year; in winter, decor featuring cattails and duck decoys brings out the riparian atmosphere outside.

Hoch opened the River Mill Grill on July 22. The veteran Central Oregon restaurateur’s previous ventures have included the Old Bend Blacksmith Shop, Le Bistro, the Jackalope Grill and Barney Prine’s (in Prineville), and they had earned him a solid following.

Although he was on vacation for much of December, Hoch’s mark on the new restaurant was evident. The menu features such continental dishes as schnitzels (boneless meat cutlets) and bratwurst from his native Germany. A collection of tall beer steins occupies a full tier above the bar, on either side of a flat-screen television.

Patrons of Fireside red will note that a dining-room wall has been removed, turning two smallish rooms into a single large one. A divider has been added to separate what was formerly a “chef’s kitchen” with counter seating. Otherwise, the space is essentially the same.

Dinner for two

All entrees at the River Mill Grill include a basket of bread, a choice of soup or salad, vegetables and potatoes, rice or equivalent. So when I visited for dinner with a companion, we skipped the appetizer and went straight to the main meal.

I started with a cup of the restaurant’s trademark “goulash suppe,” a tomato-based soup of beef, pork and onions. It was spiced with red wine and garlic, Hungarian paprika and caraway seeds, then topped with a few small croutons and a touch of grated Parmesan cheese. So hearty was the stew that a bowl of it, accompanied by a couple of slices of the house-baked rye bread, might be all the dinner a person would need.

My friend was delighted with the house salad, a modest plate similar to a Caesar — hearts of Romaine lettuce with shaved Parmesan and small croutons — distinguished by its dressing. At first it tasted like a house-made honey Dijon, but inquiry revealed that it contained red-wine vinegar, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, canola and olive oils, parsley, shallots and freshly ground pepper. Yum.

As Hoch has long been known for his schnitzels, I could not resist ordering one for my main course. My hunter-style Jaeger schnitzel was a breaded pork cutlet with a paprika-rich mushroom gravy, served with sweet braised red cabbage and the egg-noodle dumplings known as spaetzle. The meat and cabbage were wonderful. The spaetzle had virtually no flavor, but neither does pasta without sauce.

My companion ordered beef tournedos, which came as a trio of tender filet medallions. She requested the meat cooked rare, and the kitchen responded accordingly. Unfortunately, the beef was so red that it was still cool inside, so my friend sent it back for additional cooking.

Fine service

Restaurant service can be like sports officiating: It can go unnoticed except when mistakes are clearly made. Our server at the River Mill Grill was prompt, friendly, efficient and utterly unobtrusive. When my friend sent her meat back, our server didn’t raise an eyebrow, handling the redirection with thorough professionalism.

The freshly prepared steak was returned just as my companion liked. The tournedos and accompanying mashed potatoes (“real whipped potatoes,” my friend said) were covered with mushrooms and a red-wine bordelaise sauce. Fresh zucchini, the vegetable of the day, was perfectly cooked.

Once we had finished, our server steered us to share a dessert. The chocolate decadence wasn’t as rich and fancy as it may often be at gourmet restaurants, but it was a perfect end to the evening. The molten cake was delivered with raspberry sauce and whipped cream, as well as a chocolate Graham-cracker bottom crust. And it wasn’t much bigger than a flan, which made it a relatively guilt-free indulgence.

Happy hour

As modest as prices may be at the River Mill Grill — each of our dinners cost just $17.95 — the best deals are offered during happy hour, between 4 and 6 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays.

One recent afternoon, I sat at the bar and ordered a shrimp cocktail, a steak and a glass of wine. And these were not bite-sized portions, either. My total bill, not including tip, was just $15.74.

In my first course, at least two dozen sweet bay shrimp were packed upon a small bed of shredded lettuce, dressed with a light Louie dressing and a sprinkling of fresh parsley. At happy hour, this cost a mere $4.75.

Even better value was a sirloin tip steak, cooked medium-rare as I like it, served with mashed potatoes and brown gravy. There was even a small undressed salad on the side, and the price tag was only $6.99.

The River Mill is not just a steakhouse, but meats are where its strength lies. Entrees such as sirloin tips a la Wellington (with a pepper brandy sauce in a puff pastry shell), steak a la recession (ground sirloin wrapped in bacon), and skewered brochette of beef with onion and bell peppers, make it a place for meat lovers.

The menu also features a rosemary rack of New Zealand lamb and an “old family recipe” meatloaf. And there are dishes like Tuscan chicken, tarragon salmon and halibut piccata for lighter eaters.

It may not be gourmet, but it is good food at a good price.

SMALL BITES

Cork Restaurant and Wine Bar is offering a four-course chef’s tasting menu priced at only $14.50 every Tuesday night. Chef Chris Ericsen presents an Asian-influenced menu that might include Thai fish cakes, steak salad or chicken satay. Beverages and dessert are extra; reservations are recommended. Open 5 p.m. to close, Tuesday to Saturday. 150 N.W. Oregon Ave., Bend; 541-382-6881 or www.corkbend.com.

New in Redmond is Mi Cielo , in the Fred Meyer shopping plaza south of downtown. The Rodriguez family serves Mexican regional cuisine from their home state of Oaxaca, including a trademark chicken mole. Open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Saturday. 950 S.W. Veterans Way, Suite 102, Redmond; 541-923-3903.

Mrs. Beasley’s , a long-established family restaurant on South Highway 97 in Redmond, has closed. A sign on the door reads: “It has been a difficult decision to close, but in this current economic time it is necessary.” 1555 S. Highway 97, Redmond; 541-548-4023.

RECENT REVIEWS

Black Bear Diner (B-): Grin, if you can bear it. The atmosphere is cute, with chain-saw black bears and stuffed animals everywhere, but food is mediocre and service is forgetful. Breakfast is better than dinner. Open 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 6 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Sunday. 1465 N.E. Third St., Bend (541-312-8327); 429 N.W. Cedar Ave., Redmond (541-548-5969); www .blackbeardiner.com.

Boston’s The Gourmet Pizza (B+): This full-service, casual-dining restaurant and sports bar has a menu that includes a variety of pastas and entrees, but come for the superb gourmet pizza and a crispy salad. The room is bright and spacious; service is excellent and prices are moderate. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. 61276 S. U.S. Highway 97, Bend; 541-647-5050, www .bostons.com.

Pita Pit (B): Perhaps best known for serving healthy food into the wee hours of weekend mornings, this franchise operation also offers budget-priced breakfasts and lunches. Its pita-bread sandwiches are stuffed with a variety of meats and fresh vegetables. Open 9:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday to Wednesday, 9:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Thursday, 9:30 a.m. to 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday. 806 N.W. Brooks St., Bend; 541-389-7482, www .pitapitusa.com.

Scoots Bar and Grill (B+): Neither the building nor the menu is glamorous, but the half-pound burgers are some of the best in Central Oregon, and the Texas-style chili will warm you on a cold winter’s day. This is basically a bar, however, that attracts a local clientele with its pool room and karaoke machine. 11 a.m. to close every day. 175 N. Larch St., Sisters; 541-549-1588, www .scootsbarandgrill.com.

River Mill Grill

Location: 803 S.W. Industrial Way, Suite 202, Bend

Hours: 4 p.m. to close Tuesday to Saturday

Price range: Appetizers $5.95 to $7.95, full-meal entrees $11.95 to $21.95

Credit cards: Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Children’s menu: On request

Vegetarian menu: Salads or fettuccini al fresco

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Outdoor seating: Expansive deck overlooking Deschutes River

Reservations: Recommended

Contact: 541-678-5666, www.rivermillgrill.com

Scorecard

OVERALL: A-

Food: A-. It may not be fine dining, but the food and preparation are excellent.

Service: A. Prompt, friendly, efficient and unobtrusive.

Atmosphere: B. Fireside red redux, with simpler decor but the same marvelous deck.

Value: A. Prices are moderate, portions are good; entrees are full-meal deals.

Next week: Cross Creek Cafe

Visit www.bendbulletin.com /restaurants for readers’ ratings of more than 150 Central Oregon restaurants.