There’s a fine little restaurant in the Old Mill District, a couple of blocks east of the AmeriTel Inn, that deserves more attention than it gets.

The Old Mill Bistro suffers from its location. The restaurant has virtually no walk-by street exposure, and the corner it’s on — Upper Terrace Drive and Wilson Avenue, one block from the Bond Street roundabout — isn’t exactly known for pedestrian traffic. On the ground floor of the two-story Phoenix West office building, it’s saved from total obscurity only by a small sign placed outside its entrance each day.

Owner Mindy Gannon opened the establishment in August, taking over the lease after the Phoenix Cafe vacated. The Bistro’s predecessor struggled for exposure for a year and a half before deciding to move to Bend’s east side. The Bistro faces the same challenge.

It’s a charming place to dine. With large windows that welcome exterior light, the Bistro has a decor that is understated and unobtrusive. Table service, mainly provided by Gannon herself, is fast and efficient, always administered with a smile.

And the food is good. Not “to die for” good, perhaps, but good nonetheless. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday, and for Sunday morning brunch, the Bistro draws its clientele mainly from the dozens of offices in the business park surrounding it.

Lunchtime visit

The Bistro was very busy when I stopped by for lunch.

All eight tables in the main room (seating 32) were occupied, and new arrivals were being shown to an overflow room with an additional four tables. A sampling of work by local artists and photographers hung on the walls, along with architects’ renditions of an unidentified urban village.

When a gentleman dining alone offered to share his table in the main restaurant, I gratefully accepted.

I started with a cup of house-made seafood chowder. It was excellent — my favorite dish of several that I eventually ordered at the Bistro. Chunks of salmon and halibut shared the creamy blend with clams, potatoes, celery, carrots, onions and a generous sprinkle of thyme.

I followed with a Philly steak sandwich, served on a halved wheat roll. There was nothing unpleasant about this sandwich, but neither was there anything remarkable. An ample portion of reasonably lean, thinly sliced beef was stacked on the roll with melted Swiss cheese, grilled onions and one strip each of yellow, red and green bell peppers. The bread was undressed; I would have preferred it with a light spread.

Dinner for two

A few days later, a companion joined me for dinner shortly before the end of the Bistro’s 4 to 6 p.m. happy hour. We took advantage of the time by sharing two appetizers off that menu at just $4 each, about half their normal cost.

The warm artichoke-spinach dip was very rich. Chopped artichoke hearts and crunchy walnuts were stirred with spinach and melted cheese, and served on a large plate surrounded with triangles of toasted pita bread.

There were two strikes against an otherwise inviting Caprese salad. Four slices each of tomato and buffalo mozzarella were alternately layered on a plate, garnished with basil and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. With juicy heirloom tomatoes not presently in season, the tomato chosen was a Beefeater, but it wasn’t sufficiently ripe for salad purposes. And the ribboned basil didn’t yield the same burst of flavor that full leaves offer.

It was only the house-made dressings that made our fresh mixed-green salads more than ordinary. My ginger-sesame oil dressing was the better of the two, its distinctive flavor cutting through the red onions and tomatoes in the salad. My companion’s pear vinaigrette had a much more subtle character.

Beef and tuna

For entrees, we chose prime rib and seared ahi.

My companion likes her beef very rare. Because of the time it takes to roast a prime rib, the meat must be prepared in advance, and it’s hard to guarantee that a cut will be cooked to order. The Old Mill Bistro came close; my friend’s meat was served medium-rare. More lean than fatty, it was presented with real horseradish, a cup of jus and a hefty helping of potatoes mashed with garlic and pepper.

I was surprised by the crispy panko breading on my yellowfin tuna, seared medium-rare. Coconut was the dominant flavor in this dish, as shredded coconut and crushed red peppers were blended with coconut milk. Clearly different than what I normally expect in seared ahi, the flavor was not unpleasant. A generous drizzle of wasabi aioli was a welcome complement.

The accompanying white rice, however, was undercooked. Gannon offered me potatoes in place of the rice, but I was happy enough with a medley of vegetables, a dish also served with the prime rib. Sliced zucchini, yellow squash, carrots and red and sweet onions were sauteed in butter to just the right degree of doneness.

A short wine list is reasonably priced but very predictable in its offerings. About a dozen bottles of different varietals are available, most of them by the glass.

When my friend and I made our dinner visit, we were the only ones having dinner. One other table was occupied by four patrons sharing happy-hour appetizers and wine, but they left without ordering full dinners.

It’s not surprising to me that evening business at the Old Mill Bistro is very slow. When the work day is done, people want to leave their office buildings and head home.

If this were my restaurant — from a business standpoint — I’d forget about dinners and instead focus on breakfasts and lunches. Gannon herself is an accomplished pastry chef, and her skill in that regard might be better focused earlier in the day.

SMALL BITE

Thomas Garcia has named his new Redmond restaurant after his two young children: Little G’s , serving buffet-style Mexican and American breakfasts and lunches seven days a week. Morning eggs, pancakes and burritos give way midday to a menu that includes steak ranchero and shrimp Veracruz-style. Prices run $6.50 for breakfast and $6.95 for lunch, not including drinks. Open 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. every day. 1106 S.W. Highland Ave., Redmond; 541-548-8118.

RECENT REVIEWS

Nancy P’s Baking Co. (A-): A little hard to find, perhaps, but well worth it, Nancy P’s offers wonderful baked goods and excellent sandwiches, soups and salads. Prices are reasonable, and a patio offers outdoor seating during the summer months. Open 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. 1054 N.W. Milwaukie Ave., Bend; 541-322-8778; www .nancypsbakingcompany.com.

Szechuan Restaurant (B+): The freshness of ingredients, particularly the vegetables, helps allay the fact that many dishes lack spice and pizzazz. Service is friendly but it can be inconsistent. A recent makeover has improved the restaurant’s charm. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. 1600 N.E. Third St., Bend; 541-383-9033, www.bendchinese.com.

Cross Creek Cafe (A-): Outstanding sandwiches, accented with unique house-made sauces, are served with one of the finest selections of craft beers available in the region. The room may be funky, but portions are generous, service is prompt and prices are very reasonable. Open 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday to Friday. 507 S.W. Eighth St., Redmond; 541-548-2883, www .myspace.com/crosscreekcafe.

River Mill Grill (A-): Service is professional, portions are good, prices are moderate … and the food is excellent! The latest venture of well-known Central Oregon chef Axel Hoch has taken over the Mill Quarter space vacated in spring by Fireside red. Steaks and German-style dishes are specialties; happy-hour meals are a special value. 4 p.m. to close Tuesday to Saturday. 803 S.W. Industrial Way, Suite 202, Bend; 541-678-5666, www .rivermillgrill.com.

Old Mill Bistro

Location: 384 S.W. Upper Terrace Drive, Bend

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday (dinner from 4:30 p.m.), 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday

Price range: Lunch $7.95 to $12.95; dinner appetizers $7.95 to $10.95, entrees $11.95 to $19.95; Sunday brunch $5.95 to $13.95

Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa

Children’s menu: On request

Vegetarian menu: Limited selection

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Outdoor seating: No

Reservations: Not necessary

Contact: 541-389-3060 or www.oldmillbistro.com

Scorecard

Overall: B

Food: B. Creative but unpolished, with hits (seafood chowder) balancing misses

Service: A-. Fast and efficient, always administered with a smile

Atmosphere: B. Decor is understated and unobtrusive, with local art and street-side windows

Value: B. Reasonable prices for ample portions

Next week: The Gallery

Visit www.bendbulletin.com /restaurants for readers’ ratings of more than 150 Central Oregon restaurants.