At 5:30 on a non-holiday, event-free Monday evening, diners were already facing a 30-minute wait for tables at the Sunriver Brewing Co.

Spying a pair of vacant barstools, my companion and I jumped the line by bellying up to the long wooden bar, ordering a couple of Central Oregon drafts and half-watching whatever sporting event was on TV at the time.

We were rewarded with a full menu and service that was every bit as professional and friendly, as prompt and attentive, as offered at dinner tables, whether indoors or on a pair of spacious patios.

While it is true that Sunriver restaurant options are limited to perhaps a half-dozen choices — barely enough to serve resort visitors during the summer vacation period — that alone doesn’t explain the size of the patronage at the expansive pub in the heart of the Village at Sunriver. In fact, the food here is so good, with generous portions at reasonable prices, that I can recommend it as my “go-to” dining destination in Sunriver.

Fish and chips

My introduction to Sunriver Brewing was an unassuming midday meal: fish and chips with a brewhouse salad and a pint of the brewery’s own Chalk Rock Amber Ale.

By the time I left, I wondered why I hadn’t discovered this brewpub sooner.

The salad was much more than its base blend of fresh green and red leaf lettuces, tossed with blue-cheese vinaigrette and crumbles. Other ingredients — including bits of applewood-smoked bacon, pickled onions and candied walnuts — added a mix of flavors and textures. But none of those inspired my taste buds like dried cranberries that had been soaked in beer to rehydrate.

The English-style Alaskan cod, lightly battered in the brewery’s Singlehook IPA, was cooked just to flaky, as good fried fish should be. I thought it was a little bit greasy, though not enough to upset me, especially when dipped in house-made lemongrass remoulade similar to tartar sauce.

I was disappointed only by the accompanying fries and coleslaw. The potatoes were long, skinny shoestring potatoes; I believe that a traditional fish and chips meal deserves thick-cut, wedge-like, skin-on potatoes. And the slaw, described as “tangy” on the menu, was without any real character; the cabbage was too dry, and neither sweet nor sour.

Gourmet dinner

When my dining companion and I returned for dinner, we found every dish completely to our liking. And they were well beyond what one might consider normal pub fare. This was gourmet cuisine for very modest prices.

I started with the soup of the day, a roasted red-pepper blend that was like a thin bisque. It was so tasty in itself, it required no additional seasoning, not even a sprinkle of salt.

My companion began with a baby spinach salad that she immediately labeled “lovely.” Mixed with pistachio nuts, crumbled goat cheese and a salsa of grilled peaches, the salad was drizzled with an unusual vinaigrette dressing of passion fruit and habanero peppers that were surprisingly mild. I have not seen anything like this in area restaurants.

Her main course was grilled Columbia River steelhead, perfectly cooked and served with half of a roasted lemon and two wedges of pistachio-herb polenta. Six long asparagus spears accompanied. Lemon-basil butter and pico de gallo finished the dish. This was the most expensive item on the everyday menu at $20.

Modest prices

For $16.50, I had a full rack of house-smoked baby back ribs. Dry-rubbed for a smoky flavor, the pork was finished with a delicious barbecue sauce made from the brewery’s own Stargazer Black Ale.

I noted no difference between the “chips” that had come with my fish, and the “garlic herb fries” that accompanied my ribs. To me, they were the same shoestring potatoes. The coleslaw this time, however, was substantially sweeter and more flavorful than on my previous visit.

Opened on July 4, 2012, by owners Marc, Karol and Brian Cameron, the Sunriver Brewing Co. can turn around as many as 1,500 meals a day on a busy day. A big kitchen and a wealth of well-trained staff help to make that happen.

The lodge-like room is at once modern but simple and rustic, seating 200 guests indoors and out. And families are welcome here — there is even a designated children’s play area in one section of the restaurant.

Sunriver Brewing Co.

Location: 57100 Beaver Drive, The Village at Sunriver

Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. every day

Price range: Starters $5 to $12, salads $7 to $11, sandwiches $10 to $16, entrees $13 to $20

Credit cards: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Kids’ menu: Yes

Vegetarian menu: Choices include portobello fries and a spicy Earth wrap

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Outdoor seating: Two expansive patios

Reservations: No, but large groups are advised to give advance notice

Contact: www.sunriverbrewingcompany.com or 541-593-3007

Scorecard

OVERALL: A

Food: A-. Salads and entrees were perfectly prepared; only the fries and slaw need work.

Service: A. Prompt, attentive, professional and friendly — in other words, very well trained.

Atmosphere: A. Modern, lodge-like building has a rustic ambience and two spacious patios.

Value: A. The price point is moderate and the portions generous.

Next week: Wubba’s BBQ Shack

Visit www.bendbulletin.com/restaurants for readers’ ratings of more than 150 Central Oregon restaurants.