Joe Kline / The Bulletin The pastrami melt burger at Cascade Lakes Lodge in Bend.

Few local brewing companies have had the long-running success of Cascade Lakes. Founded in an airport industrial zone in Redmond in 1994, the company has grown into a thriving food-and-beverage business with multiple Central Oregon locations — most notably the Cascade Lakes Lodge.

Open since 2004, the majestic 6,000-square-foot building is a landmark on Century Drive (at Chandler Avenue) in southwest Bend. A flagstone fireplace and chimney rise through the center of the building, separating the 70-seat dining room, with its lofty ceiling, from the sports bar, which seats another 50 at tables and stools.

A games loft, featuring pool, darts and video games, overlooks the main dining area, while a variety of antique sporting goods — skis, snowshoes, kayaks and more — emphasize the idea that this is, indeed, a lodge.

That ambiance hasn’t changed a lot in the seven years since I last reviewed this spacious pub. Not surprisingly, prices have edged slightly upward in that time. But the food is now consistently good, and service is more reliable than it once was. In fact, the Cascade Lakes Lodge has become one of the better places to dine on Bend’s west side.

Burgers and salads

Any pub worth its weight in beer should have good burgers, and Cascade Lakes answers that call with flying colors. My classic cheeseburger ($9.95), made with 6 ounces of Angus beef, was cooked medium and topped with a slice of cheddar (my choice), lettuce, tomato and sweet onion.

The lightly toasted bun was firm and fresh, and dressed with a spread of mayonnaise. Accompanying hand-cut fries were excellent; I could also have chosen tater tots or quinoa salad at no additional charge, or any of several other substitutions for a bit more.

I enjoyed that burger when my dining companion called ahead for a takeout order. She chose a Southwestern chicken Cobb salad ($12.95), featuring slices of blackened, fried chicken on a generous bed of spring greens.

It was served with kernels of corn, diced tomato, black beans, chopped avocado and hard-boiled egg, along with shredded cheddar and pepper-jack cheeses. Tortilla chips added a Mexican flair, and chipotle-ranch dressing was offered on the side.

There were no service issues on this visit: The order was waiting when my friend arrived to pick it up.

Evening meal

When we arrived for an early dinner a week or so later, we were greeted promptly by a hostess and ushered, with menus and silverware, to a table on the outside patio — just off Century Drive near the roundabout. I imagine it could get a little noisy out here sometimes, but it would be nothing compared to an urban deck.

A server almost instantly materialized to take our drink orders (beer for me, cider for her), but despite our request, he returned without water. It was one of a couple of oversights more indicative of inexperience than inability.

We started our meal with a happy-hour order of calamari ($5), lightly breaded in seasoned flour and fried to a golden brown. They were not oily at all, for which I was grateful. A New Orleans-style remoulade sauce accompanied, along with cocktail sauce and lemon wedges.

My companion matched a small Caesar salad ($4.25) with pork-belly macaroni and cheese ($10.95). She immediately remarked on her salad, noting that the fresh romaine hearts were stirred with house-made croutons and, especially, a touch of anchovy paste — an ingredient that every good Caesar should include.

The mac-and-cheese, on the other hand, was merely okay. Rather than elbow macaroni, it was made with spiral fusilli pasta, blended with Gruyere and white cheddar cheese and glazed with brown sugar. The applewood-smoked pork belly was sprinkled on top, more like thick bacon bits than slab bacon. My friend opined that while it was good, it wasn’t her favorite in Bend.

Steak and fish

My entree was a hand-cut New York steak ($15.95), 10 ounces of meat with a sweet-and-spicy dry rub, smoked over mesquite wood and chargrilled. The kitchen didn’t get my medium-rare order right, and I had to send the meat back until the bloody red color was a bright pink.

Then, however, I enjoyed every bite. Served with roasted shallots and sliced Portobello mushrooms sauteed in Madeira wine, it was tender and tasty. Accompanying vegetables — a medley of grilled zucchini, yellow squash and broccoli — were perfectly cooked, and cottage-style fried potatoes were also delicious.

On a subsequent solo visit, I sat in the bar and ordered a beer and an appetizer. My seared ahi ($12.95), 6 ounces of sliced tuna with a white sesame-seed sprinkle, seared rare, was delicious. It was beautifully presented with fried Hawaiian taro chips and a salad of slivered and lightly marinated cucumbers.

My only complaint was with a side serving of wasabi vinaigrette. My preference is to eat my seared ahi with a self-mixed portion of wasabi paste and soy sauce, and this vinaigrette was too mild for my taste. But the Cascade Lakes kitchen quickly responded to my request for a simple side of wasabi, and my day was made.

— Reporter: janderson@bendbulletin.com