Meg Roussos / The BulletinBirdies Cafe in Bend occupies a space off College Way formerly held by Mercury Diner and Sumis Japanese.

If you’ve heard of Birdies Cafe before, you are one of the chosen few.

Between 2005 and 2011, Chris and Denise Tate operated the original Birdies at the Redmond area’s Eaglecrest Resort, not as a restaurant frequented by the public, but within the hotel as a service to guests.

Chris Tate left to become executive chef at Scanlon’s, the former Athletic Club of Bend restaurant, for three years. But his ongoing desire was to own a breakfast-and-lunch diner. He and Denise, his wife, found the perfect spot in Bend last summer, and by Oct. 3 they were welcoming hungry west-siders.

There are some who may say the location, on College Way near the Newport Avenue-Shevlin Way roundabout, is cursed. Indeed, over the past several years it has been home to a flurry of eateries, including the Mercury Diner, Sumi’s Japanese and Angel Thai restaurants, none of which had a long life here.

But Birdies seems to fill a niche, perhaps especially because of its proximity to Bend’s college campuses. “We’re excited,” said Chris Tate. “It’s exceeded our expectations. And our lunch service has been even better than breakfasts.”

Americana

Both the menu and decor might best be described as American regional — with canine accents.

The new owners’ renovation gave the space a neat new look, with a rear door leading to an outdoor patio open seasonally. Dozens of porcelain plates, collected from destinations all over the country, hang on the walls above neatly spaced tables and booths.

Perhaps more obvious is a wall of large photos of their five pugs, and a request that patrons support animal welfare: Birdies is a big supporter of the Humane Society of Central Oregon.

Denise Tate is vegetarian. Her husband is not, but his recipes cater to noncarnivores and meat-eaters alike.

“We pride ourselves on making everything from scratch,” he said.

Perhaps reflecting the breadth of American travels represented by the plate collection, Birdies menu crosses a wide swath of the United States in its appeal. Several dishes recall time spent in New Mexico. There’s Vermont granola, Tennessee-style crispy fried chicken, Bayou-blackened salmon, a California BLTA sandwich and plenty of Pacific Northwest choices.

Breakfast

My dining companion and I made our first visit for breakfast. My eyes lit upon the New Mexico Benny, one of several original versions of eggs Benedict. Laid atop onion-herb pancakes, with sauteed spinach and Hatch chilies from the Las Cruces area, was a half-breast of cornmeal-crusted chicken, deep-fried until crispy.

This was topped with two perfectly poached eggs and doused in a lemony Hollandaise sauce. Although I could have chosen rice and refried beans as an accompaniment, I opted for excellent hash-brown potatoes.

My companion had three Johnny Cakes, made with cornmeal and buttermilk, and a side order of eggs (two of them, over easy) and bacon. A generous medley of fresh fruit — cantaloupe, pineapple, bananas, apples, grapes and three kinds of berries — was presented on the side.

Because the plates were on the small side, the size of servings appeared particularly large. But those portions were certainly ample. We didn’t leave hungry.

Especially important in the morning, the freshly brewed coffee was excellent. So, too, was the service: always friendly, never intrusive, quick to take orders and deliver food, immediately responsive to additional requests.

Lunchtime

I returned solo for lunch, with a promise to bring takeout orders to my companion and her adult son.

I started with a cup of the soup of the day, a hearty lentil vegetable potage. The chef must have emptied his cupboard of every available veggie: There were onions, carrots, mushrooms, celery, three kinds of bell peppers, even Brussels sprouts. It was perfectly seasoned with herbs and salt; a full bowl would have been a meal in itself.

Tempted by the vegan side of the menu, I opted for a “neat loaf” made with tofu and an assortment of many of the same vegetables that had been in the soup. Sprouts, leeks, carrots and onions were roasted, mixed with tofu, and baked in a casserole. My slice, served open-faced with Spanish brava sauce on a house-made focaccia bun, had just a touch of spiciness.

The loaf did have a tendency to fall apart. But I used a side salad, especially two thick slices of beefsteak tomato, and gathered my tasty meal with lettuce, red onions and ribboned pepperoncini.

My friend’s son thought his Birdies burger, one-third pound of ground beef with cheddar cheese on a focaccia bun, was one of the best he’s had in Bend. But his mother was disappointed that my server got the order wrong.

The confusion was easy to understand. My friend wanted the “blackened salmon filet served with warm quinoa and savory broccoli.” What she got was directly beneath it on the menu — a “Bayou-blackened Northwest wild-salmon sandwich.”

As soon as she bit into the salmon and placed it atop a side salad, however, she quickly recovered. And while she missed the quinoa and broccoli, she’ll return for it again.

— Reporter: janderson@bendbulletin.com