Bags of Choquettes available for purchase at the counter at Sparrow Bakery in Northwest Crossing in Bend. (Bulletin file photo)

Pastry lovers who have become accustomed to the medieval European atmosphere of The Sparrow Bakery’s original shop in Bend will find its new space in NorthWest Crossing very, very different.

At first, it may be hard to believe that this is the same business. One location was built into the intimate payroll office and brick-walled bank vault of the century-old Bend Iron Works. The other fills a modern, industrial-themed space with soaring 30-foot walls of windows.

But once you bite into an ocean roll, there’s no room for doubt. You’ll need to arrive early to ensure your order of Sparrow’s signature pastry, seasoned with cardamom and rolled like a marine snail. Otherwise, don’t be surprised if it’s sold out.

Established in 2006 by young, Portland-trained French bakers, and almost immediately a smash hit in Central Oregon, Sparrow Bakery expanded to NorthWest Crossing late last year, opening in mid-November.

Lights dangle over the 40-seat dining room from an unfinished, two-story ceiling. An ornate metallic chandelier, of sorts, hangs above the counter where patrons place their orders. There are low tables, high counters, even sofas, but one’s choice of seating may depend upon where the direct sun floods into the café on cloud-free days.

Breakfast

My favorite Sparrow breakfast has always been its bacon breakfast sandwich, known to regulars as “The Sandoh.”

Nestled within two halves of a freshly baked croissant — its dough made in house and hand-rolled each morning — is a poached egg laid upon a generous bed of arugula, with sliced avocado and thick, crispy, smoked bacon. The feather-weight bread is dressed with a pesto-like arugula aioli, easy on the garlic.

On my last morning visit, I had a bacon-and-cheese quiche. A thick layer of eggs, layered atop a bed of crumbled bacon within a flaky pie crust, was baked until silky on the inside, golden brown on top. Generously seasoned with black pepper and topped with microgreens, it was another perfect starter for my day.

Sparrow serves Stumptown Coffee, which I have also enjoyed with a simple almond croissant. Light and flaky, the croissant was filled with almond paste and topped with sliced almonds. Breakfast service was solid, with orders delivered directly to our table, albeit one order at a time as the kitchen finished preparation.

Lunchtime

Lunch service, on the other hand, was confused on the day I visited.

I placed my order for soup and a sandwich, then sat at a table with an order number (written on a wooden spoon) and a glass of water to wait for delivery.

A couple ordered immediately after me and sat at an adjacent table. In almost no time, they were delivered their orders — except that they weren’t the right orders. The server attempted to argue, insisting that they must be their orders, because the numbers matched. She even returned a second time after returning the food to the kitchen.

The good news is that, eventually, the pair got their orders. But that wasn’t until after I had reminded the server that I wanted to eat my soup as I waited for my sandwich to be prepared.

It was delicious soup, when it finally arrived — a broccoli-cheese blend, with coarsely chopped broccoli in a relatively thin but wonderfully seasoned broth.

Sandwiches

Between that meal and a subsequent takeout order, I was able to sample three separate sandwiches at the new Sparrow.

My favorite is Yoly’s Torta, a little touch of Mexico in the heart of NorthWest Crossing. A thick layer of spicy pulled pork, nearly an inch thick, is blended with a touch of red chile sauce and offered in a soft torta roll, like a yeasty hamburger bun. It has a light chipotle spread that enhances the thinly sliced red onion, avocado and arugula. This is a good choice for diners who like a little extra bite in their sandwich.

The chicken Waldorf sandwich is also delicious, and it’s free of the bite of chilies. Tender chunks of chicken breast are combined with grapes, apple, walnuts, celery, green onions, tarragon and bleu cheese, then served on another of the Sparrow’s marvelous croissants.

The croquet monsieur is a little heavy and rich for my particular taste, but I can understand why it might be a favorite of some. Ham and Gruyère cheese are grilled between two slices of rich brioche bread, spread on opposite sides with stoneground mustard and shallot-infused béchamel sauce. Cheese is melted on one side of the sandwich, adding to what I’m sure is an already impressive calorie count.

— Reporter: janderson@bendbulletin.com