Kate Spade changes name but stays true to her roots

Published 12:00 am Saturday, March 12, 2016

KANSAS CITY, Mo. —There once was the Artist Formerly Known as Prince. Now there’s the fashion icon formerly known as Kate Spade.

You can call her Kate Valentine. She sold off her famous brand a decade ago and, just recently, decided her own name could go with it.

Now she’s back with a new accessories company, Frances Valentine — the inspiration behind her name change.

She may have grown into a New York woman, but Kate will always be a Kansas City kind of girl. (Her old friends from St. Teresa’s Academy and the University of Kansas knew her as Kate Brosnahan then.) She said the Midwest inspired her design sensibility.

“I remember someone once said there is a practical aspect to my designs, and I remember thinking that doesn’t sound so creative but that is actually the truth,” Kate said at home in New York. “There is a practicality to it. I don’t design just to design. There is a reason and hopefully an interesting reason behind it — that is where my creativity comes in.”

And one thing Kate has never lacked is creative mojo. In 1993, she left her job as accessories editor at Mademoiselle magazine to start Kate Spade New York with her advertising executive husband, Andy Spade. At the time, most high fashion bags stuck with neutral color palettes, typical shapes and the occasional all-over logo prints. Her purses were a success because she brought in the whimsy, playing with color, silhouette and, my favorite part, inside jokes.

Frances Valentine is not much of a departure. The price range is about the same, $300 to $600. For now, the focus is strictly shoes and handbags. The biggest change, she said, is she is re-entering an industry that now relies more on social media and e-commerce than brick-and-mortar stores. But the colors and cheeky styles? The fun little details that make Kate the designer we love? She’s here.

“I am not a different person,” said Kate, 53. “The aesthetic is the same as it was when I started in ’93, but it has evolved. I am paying more attention to the architecture, to the shape of the heel, the point of the toe, the sculptural details of the bag. It is all very interesting to me and I can make that as basic as I want as long as there is a sense of ‘Oh my God, I have to have you.’”

She, her husband and their longtime friends and business partners Elyce Arons and Paola Venturi have kept true to Kate’s original vision. Even the France Valentine basic ballet flat comes in shiny patent leather with a buckle on the toe. She has the classic black, white and camel. But she’s still herself: chic with a wink. So there are bright greens, pinks and yellows, too.

Kate has pulled her sketch pads back out. She’s designing again. FrancesValentine.com is live and open for business. And Kate’s daughter is a sentimental part of the brand. Her daughter’s name is Frances, named after Kate’s dad and brother. Valentine is the middle name of her mother’s dad.

“I think what’s nice is that she gets to see both the stay-at-home mom and the working mom and know there is an option,” Kate said.

Kate. Call her a Spade or a Valentine, she’s a designer with heart.

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