Matthieu Lakes hike leads to mountain marvels

MCKENZIE PASS —

North Sister rose into the sky above the blue-green lake like a massive pirate ship, while Middle Sister began to disappear into the increasing clouds.

Nobody was around, and I took the time to enjoy the quiet solitude of South Matthieu Lake.

For those who love hiking, the beauty of Central Oregon is how close we are to some incredibly scenic trails that take us into the Cascade Range and, for a few hours at least, away from the stresses of daily life.

The Cascade foothills west of Sisters near McKenzie Pass are home to many such trails. Some are demanding all-day hikes that lead to the base of the mountains, and a few others are half-day commitments that are relatively easy.

The Matthieu Lakes loop, about a 45-minute drive from Bend, is a fairly short, moderate, family-friendly trek.

To find the trailhead, turn onto McKenzie Pass Highway in Sisters, then turn left onto a gravel road about half a mile before the Dee Wright Observatory, following signs for Lava Camp Lake.

The loop includes the North Matthieu Lake Trail and part of the Pacific Crest Trail in the Three Sisters Wilderness.

The path from the parking area led me to a trail junction after just two-tenths of a mile. I turned onto the North Matthieu Lake Trail and planned to return along the PCT.

This time of year, when the snow is still melting at higher elevations, the mosquitoes can be particularly brutal. That was certainly the case on this day, as a steady buzz droned from the surrounding trees as I approached North Matthieu Lake. Luckily, I was armed with mosquito repellent.

The 6-mile loop includes 800 feet of net elevation gain, and I steadily climbed as I drew closer to the Three Sisters.

The first lake along the route, North Matthieu, is just a couple of miles into the hike and is located in a deep forest and bordered by a rocky lava flow.

I continued up the trail and eventually reached the spot where the North Matthieu Lake Trail connects to the PCT. A few more yards and I reached South Matthieu Lake and was face to face with the massive, craggy North Sister.

The small, round, clear lake reflected the clouds in the pristine setting. I looped around the lake and explored the area, climbing toward Scott Pass, where I took in a sprawling view to the east toward the town of Sisters.

The partly cloudy day, with temperatures in the 60s, was not quite warm enough for a dip in the high-country lake, but I could imagine it would be refreshing on a hot summer day.

From the lake, the PCT continues toward North Sister, and I pushed on for another half a mile or so, following snow fields that lingered along the rocky lava flow. Finally, I grew tired and decided to head back, but it’s easy to see why so many hikers are drawn to the PCT — you never know what inspiring mountain scene is around the next corner unless you keep walking.

The 2,650-mile PCT runs from Canada to Mexico, and the portion of the trail over McKenzie Pass is one of the most heavily traveled sections — and for good reason. The views of North Sister and Middle Sister are fantastic, but the PCT there also offers glimpses of Mount Washington and Mount Jefferson, and a sort of bird’s-eye view of North Matthieu Lake.

The trail cut along the ridgeline with numerous switchbacks and was an easy descent along soft dirt. The vast rocky lava field that dominates much of the McKenzie Pass stretched to the north.

As I approached the trailhead back near Lava Camp Lake, I passed a group of oncoming hikers on the PCT.

“Are we in Mexico yet?” one of them joked.

Nope, just a quick half-day escape into one of the most scenic areas of Central Oregon.

— Reporter: 541-383-0318,

mmorical@bendbulletin.com