Restaurant Review: Rockin’ Dave’s Backstage Lounge

Published 12:00 am Thursday, October 13, 2016

David Flier dances through life on a soundtrack. The owner of Rockin’ Dave’s Bistro & Backstage Lounge always seems to have a smile on his face, whether he’s deliberating on a wine list or concocting new recipes in his catering-sized kitchen.

There’s never a moment without music where Flier is concerned, whether it’s Pearl Jam blasting a grunge melody or Eric Clapton teasing a blues riff from his guitar. Counter attendants, rather than handing out numbers to deliver orders, ask patrons to name their favorite musician so they’ll know where to bring breakfast burritos and pork-belly sandwiches.

Operating one of Bend’s most successful breakfast-and-lunch joints wasn’t enough for Flier, however. Like Steven Tyler and Aerosmith, Flier would just as soon keep the train a-rollin’ all night long. So he converted the back end of his bistro into an intimate supper club.

The Backstage Lounge opened just before Memorial Day. Favorite rock albums are framed upon one wall. Three televisions are broadcasting a concert by the Rolling Stones.

The space seats about 35, including shoulder-to-shoulder seating at a five-slot bar with another dozen at a tall central seating area. Acoustics can become an issue when the lounge is full and conversations get lively, but only so much that “Satisfaction” is drowned out by voices.

Locally sourced

Flier relishes the opportunity to cook for a dinner crowd. After all, his Midwest culinary-school training went well beyond great bagels. Clad in his trademark colors of lime green and pumpkin orange, without deference to Ducks or Beavers, the chef generates an evening menu that can be as casual, or as gourmet, as a diner desires.

The food is as locally sourced as can be. The everyday menu is heavy in burgers and other sandwiches, but includes a nice variety of salads and brown-rice bowls, as well as numerous appetizers. A separate specials menu, which changes monthly, includes pasta and steak options.

Among the apps, a popular choice is “Mom’s Saucy Balls.” These are slightly larger-than-bite-size meatballs, five on a plate, doused in the sort of tomato-rich sauce that has graced many a Sunday dinner table in the Heartland. The meat was perfect, juicy and nicely seasoned.

A beet salad was marvelous. Coarsely chopped red beets tumbled on a bed of romaine with other greens, tossed with candied pecans, mandarin orange slices and carrot in a raspberry vinaigrette. It might only have benefited from more crumbled goat cheese.

A Caesar salad, on the other hand, was sadly ordinary, saved only by a delicious house-made dressing that gave zing to the romaine.

Main dishes

My dining companion loved her rice bowl. The turkey-bacon-spinach selection was one of four on the menu, including vegan options. It came with a sprinkling of microgreens, avocado and salsa, and a fried egg on top.

My bacon, mushroom and Swiss burger, one of six choices, was also excellent. Cooked medium, it had a generous portion of mushrooms on top of the meat to go with the melted cheese. Lettuce and a tomato slice were presented on the side.

Perhaps the best dish of all was a skirt steak from the list of dinner specials. Labeled the “Demi the Skirt Dinner” and priced at just $18, it featured several thick slices of house-smoked hanger steak, perfectly cooked medium-rare. Tomato relish, grilled squash and potatoes, roasted with herbs and garlic, accompanied.

Never shy about her love for chocolate, my companion ordered a brownie to finish. Two fudgelike squares were served with vanilla ice cream and drizzled with chocolate and caramel syrups. There was never a question about whether it would all be eaten.

Service was a little spotty on our second visit, when there were delays in taking drink and food orders. But it was excellent on our first, when the enthusiastic server was delighted to discuss the wine offerings at length as I watched an amazingly spry Mick Jagger prance across the TV screen. I definitely do not have the moves like Jagger.

— John Gottberg Anderson can be reached at janderson@bendbulletin.com.