Kevin Prieto / The Bulletin

The bowl of green beans sits near the hand-torn stuffing, the gravy boat strategically rests next to the mashed potatoes, and the turkey overlooks the entire spread from its vantage point in the center of the table. Snifters and pint glasses cradle beers ranging in colors from bright straw to rich chocolate, ready to be a part of the feast, and a part of the conversation.

It’s that sacred time of year when people gather together to dine upon beloved family dishes and celebrate traditions in both old and new ways. Many dining rooms across the High Desert landscape host a variety of local craft beers, ready to be paired with family tradition.

“When you find a good pairing, it is a beautiful thing,” said Jackson “Rooster” Higdon, executive chef at Crux Fermentation Project. “I refer to a perfect pairing when you take a sip of your beer, and a bite of what you are eating, and you want more of both. You taste the same flavors and find a relationship between them.”

Beer, and food, have been bringing people together for centuries as a means of building relationships. They also form their own relationships, as varied as the connections between people. Rooster encourages everyone to jump in and try pairing different beers with different foods — and not be afraid to encounter the surprise and possibilities.

When pairing food and beer, according to Deschutes Brewery’s corporate Executive Chef Jeff Usinowicz, one of the first philosophies is to pair like beers with like foods, matching intensity with intensity. Lighter beers tend to pair well with lighter meats, such as poultry and white fish. Bigger and more flavorful beers bring out the complexities of richer dishes, such as braised meats and sausages.

“But there are always exceptions to any rule when it comes to food and beer pairing,” said Usinowicz. One of his favorite things about pairing is exploring the different variables that affect both food and beer within the many combinations.

This holiday season, try bringing home a local selection of craft brews for the family, and see what happens. For appetizers, drop by Boneyard Beer’s tasting room for a growler of Hop Venom or Notorious IPAs, complete with a citrus hop kick that cuts through the richness of blue cheese on that cheese plate. While at the store, pick up cans of Sunriver Brewing Co.’s Fuzztail Hefeweizen, an effervescent American-style Hefeweizen with subtle lemon citrus notes that pairs well with many appetizers. Bring a six-pack of GoodLife Brewing’s Mountain Rescue Session Ale to the folks’ house to enjoy with Swedish meatballs, or celebrate the beginning of dinner with the champagne characteristics in Bend Brewing Co.’s Ching Ching pomegranate and hibiscus sour.

“We have a lot of customers that come in and do growler fills for the holidays, because it’s always nice to celebrate special days with your most favorite beer,” said Packy Deenihan, co-owner of Bend Brewing Co. “Customers have stories behind why they love a particular beer, and they get a growler so they can have conversations about the beer at any holiday dinner.”

For the main meal, consider picking up a growler of Wild Ride Brewing’s Cole’s Trickle Lager, Ochoco Brewing Co.’s Pinetucky Pale Ale, or Boneyard Beer’s Bon-a-fide Pale Ale, as great table beers for Thanksgiving dinner. Deschutes Brewery’s Mirror Pond Pale Ale and Silver Moon Brewing’s Chapter 2 Casual Ale, and Worthy Brewing’s Farm Out Saison are also solid options available in stores. If looking for a little fun, choose some beers that complement the tartness of cranberry sauce, such as a bottle of Wild Ride Brewing’s Tarty to the Party — a kettle sour with cranberries — or a growler of Boneyard Beer’s Femme Fetale that showcases raspberries.

Medium and dark-built beers with a malty backbone could also find their way onto the Thanksgiving table. Deschutes Brewery’s festive winter seasonal, Jubelale, has been brewed since the brewery opened in 1988 and relates well with the earthiness of stuffing and dark turkey gravy. Three Creeks Brewing Co.’s Rudolph Imperial Red Ale and Firestorm Red offer balanced malt and hop characteristics that pairs with the many types of food served during the holidays.

“Throughout Central Oregon, all the brewers do such a great job with the offerings that are out there,” said Mark Perry, restaurant manager at Three Creeks Brewing Co. The multitude of options is evidence of the local craft beer love.

Pairing for Christmas or New Year’s dinners, think Silver Moon Brewing’s IPA 97 with a honey baked ham. If serving prime rib, perhaps pair it with Sunriver Brewing Co.’s Shred Head Seasonal Ale or a growler of GoodLife Brewing Co.’s Puffy Coat Porter. Crux Fermentation Project’s Freakcake barrel-aged Ouid Bruin, available at the brewery’s tasting room while supplies last, bring together all the robust flavors that so beautifully go with the holiday season, as does the brewery’s Doublecross Strong Dark Belgian Ale.

For dessert, it’s always fun to have friends bring over their favorite big beers, such as Wild Ride Brewing’s Nut Crusher Peanut Butter Porter, Bend Brewing Co.’s Lovely, Cherry Baltic Porter, or a growler fill of Craft Kitchen & Brewery’s seasonal spiced pumpkin ale offering. Barrel-aged beers are also perfect to pop open for a holiday celebration, such as Deschutes Brewery’s The Abyss. If a pick-me-up or wake-me-up beverage is required for the following morning, try Jeff Schauland’s Cold Press Coffee Stout recipe. The head brewer at Silver Moon Brewing recommends making a pot of French press coffee, leaving it out for 18-24 hours with a lid, and then filling that special glass with ¾ of Silver Moon Brewing’s Dark Side American Stout. Top it off with cold press coffee, and heavy whipped cream if desired.

Recipes involving beer is another exciting way to see what is possible between the connection of food and local brews. Many breweries feature pub fare made with beer and its ingredients, such as Deschutes Brewery’s Fresh Squeezed IPA vinaigrette, Craft Kitchen & Brewing’s stout ice cream, and Crux Fermentation Project’s upcoming meatball sub. Spent grain from the brewing process is often used in breads and bakery items, nourishing a consciousness of sustainability.

While gathering around the table and remembering what is important this holiday season, try some new flavors from Central Oregon’s fleet of high-quality breweries, and celebrate the possibilities together.

“There is a very celebratory and social side of craft beer,” said Deschutes Brewery’s Usinowicz, “and that is really what the holidays are all about.”

If you want to try your hand at cooking with beer at home, discover recipes from online resources such as craftbeer.com and deschutesbrewery.com.

Kimberly Bowker serves as a tour guide and beer educator at Deschutes Brewery. She is continually awed, and grateful, with how craft beer brings people together.