Restaurant review: Looking Glass Imports & Café

Published 12:00 am Thursday, November 10, 2016

Kelly and Kathryn Johnson know that their new cafe and import store in north Bend needs a little work.

Since opening Looking Glass Imports & Café six months ago in the former Ranchero Mexican restaurant space, they have struggled to be equal to the definition of their name, as expressed by Kelly Johnson: “Being or experiencing the opposite of what is expected.”

In fact, after half a year in business, there’s very little about Looking Glass that would raise an eyebrow. Although the food is excellent — mainly salads and sandwiches made with fresh produce and top-quality Boar’s Head meats — and the space is clean and bright, Looking Glass lacks the sort of touch that would set it apart from other casual cafés on Bend’s north side.

By the Johnsons’ own admission, they “may have been playing it a little too safe.”

Now, I’m a fan of Looking Glass. A spicy Thai beef salad and Ultimate Veggie sandwich will set me back less than $10, and I can enjoy them in an atmosphere of neatly aligned tables beside windows that face a large parking lot. The L-shaped seating area is focused around a central service bar, where premade ingredients wait to be transformed into healthy meals.

The import store, on the north side of the dining room and about half its size, markets a choice of domestic and international gift items, many of them with a New Age slant. Behind it, an event room welcomes lectures, workshops and other activities. At one corner of the dining area, beside a bookshelf, plush couches and chairs offer patrons a place for relaxed conversation.

A place for creativity

But there’s a place here for more drama and creativity, as the Johnsons are aware. Development of the cafe was slowed by the arrival of their first child, a daughter, at the end of July, but they’ve been bolstered by the contributions of Tonni King, a co-owner of the restaurant. King is the mother of Kelly Johnson, a Sisters High School graduate.

In the future, patrons should expect to see changes in decor that will inject the space with a greater sense of intimacy. Music, comedy and other evening events are planned, bolstered by other community-binding activities and a licensed bar that serves happy-hour cocktails for $5.

But the long-term success of Looking Glass may depend on its kitchen offerings. The menu has creative touches but is largely unadventurous; the Thai beef and berry-nut salads are as avant-garde as it gets. A choice of breads beyond the white house ciabatta on which every sandwich is served, and a choice of cheeses and other ingredients, could add a “build-your-own” sensibility that diners might find appealing.

Now, there are plenty of healthy ingredients on each of the cold gourmet sandwiches. The Ultimate Veggie, for instance, has a tasty hummus spread that complements layers of cucumber, avocado, tomato, red onion, roasted red pepper and garden greens.

The Spicy Chicken Club has a tangy spread of Cajun mayo with chunks of grilled chicken breast, bacon, tomato, greens and pepper-jack cheese. The Supreme pairs layers of turkey, ham and roast beef with tomato, chopped red onion and crispy pickles, seasoned with salt and pepper and dressed with olive oil and vinegar.

Panini and salads

On the hot-lunch side of the menu, the Turkey Apple is one of four grilled paninis offered on ciabatta bread. Slices of green apple are served with turkey, cranberry sauce and sharp cheddar cheese, seasoned and drizzled with olive oil.

Two soups are offered each day, typically a New England clam chowder and another changing selection. I had a cheesy chicken tortilla soup, heavy on the cheese but lacking tortilla strips. I assured the staff they could be added before serving to keep them from getting soggy.

The salads were fresh, which is the number-one standard to which any dish of greens must answer. The Chicken Avocado Caesar didn’t have the anchovy paste essential to any true Caesar, and the avocados were served not sliced but as guacamole. Still, its crispy romaine lettuce was tossed with a tangy Caesar dressing, supplemented with bacon, croutons, fresh Parmesan cheese and a hard-boiled egg.

The Spicy Thai Beef was more tropical than specifically Asian, coupling a selection of greens with peanuts, shredded coconut, chopped pineapple and red bell peppers. A sweet Thai chili sauce finished the salad and perhaps gave it its name.

The Berry Nuts salad is made with “seasonal mixed berries,” which on this occasion were strawberries and blackberries. Slivered almonds and feta cheese are also tossed with the house greens and dressed with raspberry vinaigrette.

Several desserts are offered, including fruit pies, but I opted for a smoothie, available in eight varieties. My Sweet Banana with dates and almond milk kept me smiling for hours.

— John Gottberg Anderson can be reached at janderson@bendbulletin.com.