Level 2 Global Food & Lounge

Published 11:43 am Thursday, August 24, 2017

If you’re a devotee of Yelp, a website that lets users review businesses including restaurants, you will read that Level 2 in the Old Mill District is an Asian restaurant.

That’s not entirely true. In fact, it’s not even half true. Level 2 Global Food & Lounge has a very broad-ranging menu that indeed features Asian foods (Japanese, Indian, Korean and fusion) but even more American and Mediterranean choices.

A fixture in the Old Mill District since September 2010, Level 2 sits above Saxon’s Fine Jewelry, with stairway and elevator access to the second story of the restored Fuel Building. It’s a venture of Howie and Ada Long, who own numerous other Asian restaurants in Central Oregon.

Open nightly for happy hour and dinner, the restaurant’s main rooms are long and narrow, with a bar along one side and additional side chambers for overflow and private parties. The menu is heavy on small plates, soups and salads; they outnumber entrees by a 2-to-1 margin, encouraging shared-plate, tapas-style dining.

When Level 2 first opened, as is true for many restaurants, preparations were inconsistent; they were often heavy-handed and lacking subtlety. Today, however, I find the food excellent and the service a match. On two recent visits, our server was friendly, prompt and knowledgeable — a good combination.

Asian options

Among my favorite Asian dishes at Level 2 are the vegan lettuce wraps. (They can also be made with chicken.) The spicy vegetarian version is made with grilled cubes of tofu, marinated in a soy reduction with black beans, carrots, bean sprouts, red bell peppers and cashews. Although I’m not a vegetarian, I could get used to these.

Ahi tuna poke, marinated in a sambal soy vinaigrette, was so neatly served atop rice it appeared to have been held in a mold. Topped with four crispy wonton crackers, the raw fish were presented with wasabi creme and a sprinkle of crushed macadamia nuts. It didn’t need the rice, but it was delicious.

As far as snack food goes, I’m a big fan of chicken wings. Level 2’s “win wings” didn’t disappoint. They were prepared with a sweet chili-sauce glaze and a sprinkle of crushed cashews, with a mild Korean kimchi slaw on the side.

One of my favorite Indian foods is korma, a creamy and mildly spicy curry simmered with onion and garlic, green apples and toasted cashews. Prepared with chicken (also available vegetarian) and served on a bed of quinoa, it was served with yogurt-based raita, a cucumber sauce that helps to cut the heat of spicy curries. Again, this dish hit the mark.

All-American food

Other dishes that I enjoyed with my dining companion were more classic Euro-American. A butternut squash bisque, pureed with coconut milk, was a delicious example.

The grilled Caesar featured stalks of romaine lettuce with shaved Parmesan, Caesar dressing and a single large crouton; my argument with this preparation is that the lettuce can become soggy with grilling, and this was no exception.

My companion said her burger, topped with cheddar cheese and bacon, was among the best she’s had in Bend. A generous patty, cooked medium and dressed with basil-pesto mayonnaise, was offered with lettuce, tomato and a small but tasty house-made dill pickle. House-cut fries were served on the side with ketchup that was blended with balsamic vinegar, a fine mixture.

Baby back ribs, smoked in house and slow braised, were brushed with barbecue sauce made from Makers Mark whiskey: Is there anything more American than Kentucky bourbon? The ribs were wonderful, especially served with garlic mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables like zucchini and broccoli.

The same sides were presented with my companion’s chicken piccata. This northern Italian preparation of breaded, boneless chicken breasts with a buttery lemon-caper sauce is a Mediterranean classic. Level 2 did it right.

There are several dishes I look forward to trying at this restaurant, including calamari with mango-ginger sauce and an udon noodle bowl with snow peas, to name but two. I’m delighted that this restaurant has established itself as an Old Mill go-to.

— janderson@bendbulletin.com

Level 2 Global Food & Lounge

Food: ()

Eclectic mix of Asian and Euro-American dishes, all skillfully prepared.

Service: ()

Friendly, prompt and knowledgeable, as good service should be.

Atmosphere: ()

Long, narrow room is a little awkward to find on the first visit.

More Info

Location: 360 SW Powerhouse Drive, Suite 210 (Old Mill District), Bend

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday

Cuisine: International

Price range: Starters and small plates $5 to $11, entrees $12 to $30

Credit cards: American Express, Discover, Master Card, Visa

Kids’ menu: On request

Vegetarian and gluten-free menu: Lettuce wraps are a great choice; dietary recommendations are noted on the menu.

Alcoholic beverages: Full bar

Outdoor seating: Limited balcony tables

Reservations: Suggested for large parties

Contact: level2bend.com; 541-323-5382

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