Restaurant review: One Street Down Café

Published 6:57 am Thursday, November 30, 2017

Just because the cafe is One Street Down doesn’t mean it’s not top end.

In fact, there may be no one in northern Deschutes County who does breakfasts and lunches better than this small, family-friendly Redmond eatery.

Located a single block west of Sixth Street, Redmond’s busy southbound artery, One Street Down Cafe is in its ninth year of providing home-style meals to a grateful clientele.

The cafe’s home is a humble former residence of Craftsman architecture. Five rooms, gouache-painted in tones of ocher and rust and hung with art, seat as many as 52 diners at copper-topped tables that rest upon hardwood floors. Mismatched, estate-sale table settings and napkins tied with string only add to the charm.

Kristy and Neal Cross opened One Street Down in November 2008 as a family business, at times employing all four of their adult children. Even now, their staff is so warm and friendly, you’d think they must be cousins. On both of our recent visits, my dining companion and I were promptly and cordially seated, our orders quickly taken and delivered.

Breakfast

In the morning hour, after getting a cup of good, strong coffee, I ordered a meal called the Lumberjack. It’s a simple breakfast — eggs, pancakes, meat and potatoes — but the adventure came in how I wanted each of them prepared. I took my two eggs scrambled, and they were cooked perfectly. Instead of pancakes, I had French toast, which I happily discovered was made with cinnamon bread baked in the cafe’s Centennial Park annex. (In fact, all of the baked goods, including pastries and giant cinnamon rolls, are its own.)

I asked our server which meat she’d recommend, and she raved about the bacon before mentioning the ham. I went with the latter and was rewarded with a thick slice of delicious, grilled ham steak. And my coarsely chopped potatoes, or “home fries,” were sauteed with green peppers and onions. All this cost just $12.

My companion opted for the Man Scramble. The three-egg extravaganza includes bacon, ham and sausage, all scrambled together in a single skillet with grilled sweet onions, home fries and shredded cheddar. Rather than toast, my friend subbed a fruit salad that even in March was served with fresh ingredients — apples, grapes, oranges, blackberries, strawberries, bananas and even pineapple. The tropical slices came from the actual fruit, not from a can.

I’m curious enough about a couple of other breakfast items to put them on my list for a future visit: homemade oatmeal, served with almonds, raisins and brown sugar, and home-baked biscuits with a spicy, Southern-style sausage gravy.

Lunchtime

When we returned another day for lunch, my friend selected an Athens Salad from the menu. Made with baby spinach leaves, this wasn’t a typical Greek salad, even though it had Kalamata olives, artichoke hearts and crumbled feta cheese. Chopped tomatoes and capers were also included, as well as a Parmesan cheese crisp so large, it almost covered the entire plate.

I opted for a soup-and-sandwich lunch. I almost passed on the soup of the day, a Southwestern chili selection, but was pleased that I ordered it: It was nowhere near as heavy as I had feared. Made with two beans and two peppers, along with ground beef, onions and black olives, I found the savory tomato-based broth to be pleasantly light, even when topped with shredded cheese.

My chicken-salad sandwich was stirred with green apples, dried cranberries, diced celery and (of course) chopped chicken breast, as well as a couple of plump blackberries. I enjoyed it even though the “special sauce” promised on the menu may have been only seasoned mayonnaise, and the walnuts listed were missing entirely. Served with greens, it was offered on a croissant that I found surprisingly dry, as if it were a day or two old.

Next time? The turkey Reuben on rustic caraway sourdough bread sounds great, as does the Caprese panini with fresh basil, tomatoes, mozzarella, balsamic vinaigrette and a roasted red-pepper pesto on rosemary bread. Another great-sounding vegetarian selection might be the quinoa salad, with black beans, sweet corn and a coriander-and-cumin vinaigrette.

Once a month, the One Street Down Cafe offers a special dinner, frequently linked to a seasonal holiday. In March, that was a St. Patrick’s Day meal, featuring warm cabbage salad, lamb stew, bangers and mash. For dessert, the selection was a pear, poached in Irish stout, served with caramel corn and honey. The price of $45 included beer or wine. I’ll be excited to hear what might be coming up for Easter!

— John Gottberg Anderson can be reached at janderson@bendbulletin.com.

The cafe’s home is a humble former residence of Craftsman architecture. Five rooms, gouache-painted in tones of ocher and rust and hung with art, seat as many as 52 diners at copper-topped tables that rest upon hardwood floors. Mismatched, estate-sale table settings and napkins tied with string only add to the charm.

One Street Down Cafe

Food: () Creative touches on home-style cuisine please diners daily for breakfast and lunch.

Service: () Warm, friendly, family-friendly service, with orders quickly taken and delivered.

Atmosphere: () Five rooms of a Craftsman home welcome diners with fine art and estate-sale table settings.

More Info

Location: 124 SW Seventh St. (near Black Butte Boulevard), Redmond

Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. every day

Cuisine: Creative American

Price range: Breakfast $8 to $12, lunch $6 to $12

Credit cards: Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Kids’ menu: Yes

Vegetarian and gluten-free menu: Greek omelet and Happy Hippie sandwich are good veggie options; gluten-free meals require a day’s notice

Alcoholic beverages: Beer and wine

Outdoor seating: Seasonal

Reservations: Requested for large groups

Contact: onestreetdowncafe.com, 541-647-2341

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