Ochoco Brewing Co. (originally named Solstice Brewing) in Prineville opened its doors in 2011 and began brewing beer in 2012. Originally located in the former Main Street Saloon building, Ochoco moved and expanded in 2015.

The brewery moved into an industrial space on the edge of town, and the pub relocated several blocks north on Main Street into the space that once housed the notorious Cecil’s Pastime saloon.

It’s an apt historical connection. Prineville was the first town in Central Oregon to host not one but two breweries, during the frontier era at the end of the 19th century. When owner Joseph Barker renamed the business from Solstice to Ochoco in 2015, he was honoring the first Ochoco Brewery, which operated from 1882 to 1890.

Barker brews on a seven-barrel system and maintains a solid lineup of standard beers and specialty one-offs. Most of these are draft only, though several such as the Prinetucky Pale Ale are available in bottles as well.

While you can occasionally find several Ochoco beers on tap in Bend, to experience the full range I recommend visiting the source. I recently visited the pub in Prineville to do just that and get reacquainted with the brewery. I ordered a taster tray of six of the 13 beers on tap, which provided a good overview of what’s offered.

Prinetucky Pale Ale — 5.2 percent ABV (alcohol by volume), 41 IBUs (international bittering units)

This beer is Ochoco’s top seller, an easy-drinking pale ale that reminds me of an English pub bitter. Soft, mellow graininess and earthy, mildly floral hops balance a big punch of caramel malts in the aroma. This caramel malt note borders on diacetyl, or butterscotch, and in taste there’s a malty sweet character with grassy and lightly herbal hops. It’s a comfortable pub beer and a good food accompaniment.

Wild & Scenic Apricot Witbier — 3.4 percent ABV, 20 IBUs

The Wild and Scenic Rivers Act was passed in 1968 and for this year’s 50th anniversary a number of Central Oregon breweries are crafting special beers to commemorate its passage. Ochoco was the first to release a beer in this series, a Belgian-inspired wheat beer fermented with Oregon apricots. It has a cream of wheat character, with a touch of coriander and subtle fruit notes in the body. I would have liked some more fruitiness and possibly a touch of acidity, but at 3.4 percent alcohol by volume the beer is crisp and refreshing.

Steins Pilsner — 4.9 percent ABV, 36 IBUs

Pilsners are not necessarily an easy style to brew, but Ochoco’s version is clean and crisp, with a bright burnished gold color and crisp white head. I get a pleasant impression of grainy corn in the aroma and flavor, with earthy, herbal hops providing a subtle balance. With a dry finish, this pilsner is light and drinkable for a great summertime option.

Raghorn Brown — 5.09 percent ABV, 20 IBUs

In my opinion, there are not enough brown ales being brewed, so I was pleased with Ochoco’s rendition of one. Raghorn Brown is an attractive pour. It presents coffee and lightly roasted brown malts in the aroma, tempered by some brown sugar. The flavor is classic nutty brown with dry, roasty grains and walnut shell, coffee, and chocolate malts.

Last Day IPA – 6 percent ABV, 60 IBUs

This pale yellow ale has a mellow hop profile and a bit of honey in the aroma. In fact, it was quite a bit lighter than I was expecting, with a lightly bitter hop presence and a lingering, sessionable bitterness.

44Point3 Session IPA – 5.4 percent ABV, 45 IBUs

With a hazy brown color tinted with orange, this had more of the hop character I was seeking out. Citrus fruit aroma led into a hop-forward sip that had a spicy note and light cherry flavors. Notes of tea and bitter dandelion greens finish it off, and it remained mellow and easy drinking throughout — appropriate for a session IPA.

If you haven’t visited Ochocho Brewing lately — or especially if you’ve never been at all — it’s worth the trip out to Prineville. The variety of beer styles will appeal to a wide number of palates, complementing a solid food menu. And you’ll be connecting to a bit of Central Oregon beer history in a roundabout way.

— Jon Abernathy is a Bend beer blogger and brew aficionado. His column appears every other week in GO!