Hops are arguably the most important ingredient in American craft brewing, and brewers are always searching for new varieties to add to their beers. They offer up a wide variety of flavors and aromas, ranging from bitter to earthy to spicy to a cornucopia of fruits, and, would you believe, pina colada?

That’s a characteristic offered up by Sabro, a new hop variety introduced only two years ago that is catching brewers’ eyes. It has distinctive notes of tangerine, coconut and tropical fruit, and is one of the most noteworthy hops I’ve encountered.

Late last summer, Deschutes Brewery released Slightly Exaggerated IPA, featuring Sabro, and my notes at the time mention passionfruit, but not coconut. In Yakima, Washington, last fall, I drank a Sabro fresh hop ale that was full of coconut flavor, and since then I’ve been on the lookout for similar experiences.

Currently, Bevel Craft Brewing Company has just such a beer in its latest Hop Tour IPA, featuring this new variety. The Hop Tour series features single hop beers that showcase the particular qualities of different hops, and Bevel owner and head brewer Nate Doss is happy with Sabro.

“The hop flavor itself is very refreshing and not heavy whatsoever,” wrote Doss via email. “The first thing that came to mind from the aroma side was ‘Peach-O’s’ candy, which was awesome. Flavor-wise, it’s a mix of stone fruit and coconut flavors, which I feel blend perfectly.”

Aside from the striking coconut character, Sabro is unusual in that it’s bred from an indigenous American hop subspecies found growing in the wilds of the New Mexico mountains. This is notable as nearly every hop used in brewing is from European descent, even varieties bred as American hops such as Cascade and Willamette.

Dubbed neomexicanus, this New World hop is genetically distinct from its European cousins to the tune of about one million years. Considered wild hops, they can be difficult to breed, but several varieties have been released to the market in the past several years, including Medusa, Zappa, and now Sabro. All of these hops are said to have intense fruity and unusual qualities.

This is Bevel’s first time brewing with it. “I am not currently using Sabro in any of our other beers but definitely have some ideas that I would love to explore,” said Doss. “Overall, Sabro has proven to be a very well balanced and fun hop to work with.”

Doss keeps the recipe for the Hop Tour beers simple. “Base beer wise, the malts are super simple, mostly two-row with a little bit of oats,” he said. “I keep the water fairly soft to avoid extra bitterness. Most of the recipe decisions are based on letting the hops shine.”

Sabro follows this blueprint, pouring a crisp, clear, golden yellow with lacy white foam, almost pilsner-like in appearance.

The aroma is awash in tangerine zest, floral rose water, and raw coconut with a light hint of coconut milk. It’s rounded out by a touch of green leafy fragrance and orange oil, with a hint of stone fruit.

There’s light coconut flavor, as well, with enough tropical fruit character to be slightly piña colada-like. I’m almost tempted to describe it as “suntan lotion” (perhaps summer on the beach) though it’s mildly earthy, which is reminiscent of fresh, sweet coconut meat and a bit of husk. It’s lightly bitter with a floral note that’s a bare hint of lilac.

On the whole, I enjoyed the beer and found that coconut character I was looking for.

Sabro is still new enough to not be widely available, though more breweries are releasing beers with it. Besides Slightly Exaggerated, Deschutes currently has a hazy IPA available, Virtual Beer Hug, brewed with Sabro and other experimental hops. Crux Fermentation Project is offering Viper Pilot Imperial IPA, with a hop blend including Sabro. And Boneyard featured it in a collaboration brew last fall.

If you’re interested in experiencing this new hop — and if you like coconut — Bevel’s Hop Tour: Sabro IPA showcases it nicely.

 

1. Hugs and Flip Flops Hazy IPA — Sunriver Brewing

2. High Desert Lotus Pils — Cascade Lakes Brewing

3. Pacific Rain Northwest Pale Ale — Ninkasi Brewing

4. Raspberry Weizen — Kobold Brewing

5. Eagle Cap IPA — Terminal Gravity Brewing

6.