Having lived 23 years in L.A., with the last name of Gonzalez, we ate a lot of Mexican food at restaurants and in my in-laws’ kitchens. I was excited to hear about Don Gabino’s Mexican Grill, a new restaurant from a cook that came up from San Diego. The word on the internet was that this was “authentic” and “the best Mexican restaurant in town.” The food was hit and miss, but breakfast seemed to be the best time.

For breakfast, we ordered a chorizo and eggs burrito and Huevos Rancheros. Chorizo is made with pimentón, a Spanish smoked paprika gives this pork sausage its brick red color and tangy, slightly spicy flavor. Wrapped in a grilled flour tortilla that tasted homemade, the tasty chorizo burst from its well-balanced blend with the eggs. Still, I must note that I ordered this again on a separate occasion. The flour tortilla was dripping with chorizo grease. While authentic, it wasn’t as good as the first breakfast burrito.

The Huevos Rancheros starts with crispy-edged, over-easy eggs, with pico de gallo — chopped tomatoes, onions and peppers — on a crispy corn tortilla. Fresh shredded lettuce and melted cheese top it off. The mild peppers and pico de gallo added a pleasant, tangy taste. Tender Spanish rice and refried beans round out the common Mexican meal. While cooked to the right consistency, both rice and beans were bland. I’m a fan of refried beans. If the typical preparation with lard was used, I couldn’t detect any of its flavor (or any real flavor for that matter).

Lunch and dinner choices include a variety of burritos, tacos and other Mexican dishes from enchiladas, to quesadillas and tostadas.

My first visit was in the middle of the shutdown. Don Gabino’s, at 304 SE Third St. in Bend, had only been open a short time. Typically, I would wait to review any eatery when it first opens as they are getting their menu worked out. My second visit showed no changes or improvements.

The Oregon burrito starts with the same tasty flour tortilla they use for the breakfast burrito. It was wrapped around dry, unseasoned steak, fries and cheese, with a spattering of tomatoes and onions. The meat was tender but did not have any marinade to give it a taste of Mexican cooking. I was told that it is salted but had no other seasonings. I ordered a side of guacamole in hopes that it would add flavor, but that created another problem.

Besides fast-food restaurants, guacamole is usually prepared by smashing the avocado, creating a chunky dip, then adding cilantro, onions, tomatoes, jalapeños and more. At Don Gabino’s, Chef/Owner Jaime Mata believes in keeping it simple. He is proud that he doesn’t add anything to the blended smooth avocado he serves as guacamole. This process leaves the avocado watery and unstable. It arrived only 15 minutes from when it was made but had already turned brown.

When I commented about this to the restaurant staff, I was told that it’s better to eat it immediately after it is made. It would probably be better if it wasn’t nearly liquified and had some other flavors added.

The chicken enchilada plate was unremarkable. It came with rice, and refried beans presented in a pasty pile with a few partial smashed beans.

The tacos appear to be the item on the menu most people have enjoyed. We had a carnitas taco, and a carne asada street taco. Both had a bit more flavor than other dishes on the menu. Still, nothing would have me choose them over the many tasty tacos available at restaurants and food trucks around town.

Again, that visit was in the middle of the pandemic close down. I thought I would wait until a while after restaurants had reopened before giving it a second try.

The second dinner confirmed my first experience. This time I had a Don Gabino’s Burrito filled with shrimp and beef. It was an improvement over the Oregon burrito. The meat was still bland but tender, but the shrimp added dimension and were cooked well. Tomatoes and onions added moistness and flavor.

In search of a dish that I could enjoy, I chose the tostada. The tostada wasn’t it, as it started with the same refried beans piled on a corn tortilla and topped with shredded lettuce. As this was a delivery, the restaurant added a nice touch — a second crispy tortilla on top of the tostada. I could transfer the other ingredients to that fresh crunchy tortilla, as the original one was soggy after several minutes.

I finally succeeded in finding a delicious item on the menu when a cheerful, helpful young woman at the counter recommended the Taco El Patron. It was a special of the day, and she explained that he was passionate about this taco. It was loaded with different ingredients. Perfectly cooked shrimp was partnered with smokey ham and salty bacon. Pico de gallo, cabbage and avocado added fresh flavors. It was topped with a creamy sauce that brought it all together. I delighted in the variety of tastes.

Don Gabino’s may be authentic based on its ownership. But my preference is for a different flavor profile with more Mexican spices than the simple no-added-ingredients preparation. While the Taco El Patron is worth a visit, there are many other Mexican restaurant options in Central Oregon that I prefer to frequent.