Fat, juicy Mushroom Burger for dine-in with sweet potato fries. 

Round Table Pizza in Bend and Redmond disappeared, and within a matter of days, signs were put up for Deschutes Junction. While the eatery concept hasn’t changed drastically, it is no longer a corporate pizza place. It is now a family-owned pizza parlor and grill. Corey Howland and his parents, David and Lori, have owned or been involved in the Round Table franchise here for 22 years, but they recently took back the two locations. Corey explained, “We are family owned. We want this to be a place to hang out, to be the kind of place where a single guy can come and get pizza and beer.

It is also a place where you can hang out with your friends, where families can come and hang out and let the kids roam. It’s a design that’s been lost in the last 20 years. We have an arcade for kids that is in full sight of their parents’ table. We serve the kind of food that I’d like to eat. And I bring that to the arcade, too. I fought hard to get Mortal Kombat and other games I grew up playing as a kid in the early ’90s.”

While the food is a nod to its previous Round Table incarnation, the Howlands have made it their own. They have changed recipes and upgraded ingredients, including Tillamook cheese on the burgers and quality beef. The Redmond location serves a selection of local Redmond beers. Corey Howland calls the beers an “ode to Redmond,” including Wild Ride and Three Creeks. Corey, previously the kegmeister for the Brewfest, is well versed in beer and has curated an eclectic collection of 20 taps at the Bend eatery.

The menu is basic, with only a few main course categories — pizza, burgers, and wings. The signature combo pizzas are offered in four sizes, starting at four slices for $13 to an extra-large pie with sixteen slices for $30. You can also create your own pizza with a variety of toppings, sauces, meats and vegetables.

We tried the Luau pizza. It is similar to the Maui Zowie pizza that I used to get at Round Table. Yes, it has pineapple along with ham, bacon crumbles, tomato chunks and red and green onions. Deschutes Junction’s Polynesian sauce has a bit more zing, though it’s not too spicy. Their pizza dough is a mixture of fresh-made and day-old aged dough that results in a crust that can hold up to many toppings without drooping or collapsing. The edges were thick and chewy, and the center was crunchy. It was an excellent consistency.

Our first meal was delivered from the Bend store. We had wings, a burger and a side salad. There are seven sauces/preparations of wings — buffalo, barbecue, mango habanero, Polynesian, garlic parmesan, lemon pepper or perfectly plain. We chose a 12-piece mix and match, half had mango habanero and half were buffalo. The chicken was tender and moist. The mango habanero sauce had a little heat, but I could not taste the mango. It was a good flavor nonetheless. The buffalo wings were very mild and messy. Their sauce was tangy on the tongue. We would definitely order the wings again.

We had a side spinach salad. It was primarily fresh, though the red onions were a little past their prime with a strong flavor. The salad was topped with grape tomatoes and came with sunflower seeds. I chose the mild balsamic vinaigrette, which was an excellent complement to the spinach.

Our first meal also included a cheeseburger. It was not a great experience, and I blame it on how long it was between when it was cooked and when it was delivered. We chose a Classic Burger with cheese and bacon. The half-pound grilled burger and cheddar cheese were dry and overdone. Bacon bits were piled atop the meat that was served on a thick brioche bun. Fresh lettuce, tomato and onion were served on the side. I had to give it another try while eating at the restaurant.

I went to the Redmond location for my second meal. I opted to eat the burger hot and straight from the kitchen. This time, I had the Mushroom Swiss Burger with melted Swiss cheese and grilled mushrooms. I also requested the burger be cooked medium. It made all the difference. The meat was thick and juicy, and the Tillamook Swiss cheese had more flavor, but there were only a few mushrooms. The bun was a bit slippery, glistening from butter. The accompanying sweet potato fries were thick enough to be creamy inside with a crunchy exterior. This was a tasty burger and fries combo.

Deschutes Junction may have to wait before it can reach its goal of a nostalgic pizza parlor experience. Until then, the food and casual atmosphere are inviting and tasty enough for a return visit.