Feast Food Co. truck offers fresh, eclectic bites
Published 10:00 am Wednesday, May 12, 2021
- In this dish, wheat berries are topped with fried oyster mushrooms to create a variety of textures.
Former 900 Wall chef de cuisine Chris Leyden and his fiancee, Emma Reko, spent five years planning to open The Feast Food Co. now parked at General Duffy’s Waterhole in Redmond. The result is complex, eclectic dishes made from incredibly fresh meat and vegetables that Leyden describes as “locally oriented wood-fired eats.”
He explained, “It’s not a certain cuisine; it’s ingredient-driven. I cook by what the farmers give me, especially those things that people don’t buy all the time, then I come up with a recipe that showcases the food and what you can do with it.” He conveyed great respect for the local farmers and the community. He wants to help sustain local farms. His goal is to have events in the future that introduce farmers to the community.
A board on the side of the truck displays that day’s local suppliers. On the days I visited, the meat was from Vaquero Valley Ranch and Hills Meat Company. Produce comes from farms including High Desert Harvest, Groundwork Organics, Deschutes Gourmet Mushroom, Rooper, Rainshadow Organics, and Sungrounded Farm. Dairy came from Windy Acres Dairy Farm, and he uses Big Ed’s buns.
The unique mixture of ingredients in the Wheatberry Risotto is a perfect example of using available roasted vegetables and a unique combination of flavors. Meaty wheatberries resemble the shape and texture of risotto. It was cooked in a mushroom broth and included grilled mushrooms, then it was topped with his chicken-fried mushrooms. Grilled brassica greens — baby kale, Swiss chard, and bok choy greens — add a vegetable element without bitterness. Goat cheese brings a creamy freshness to this hearty bowl. The flavors were well-balanced, distinct and satisfying.
The chicken-fried mushrooms are available as an appetizer. Oyster mushrooms are dipped in buttermilk then coated with a gluten-free flour and potato starch mixture with Leyden’s secret spice mixture similar to fried chicken flavors. It’s served with Alabama white sauce, which starts with scratch-made mayonnaise and whole grain mustard. Horseradish, Worcestershire and other barbecue sauce ingredients are added. Though coated, the mushrooms are light, crunchy and the perfect vehicle for the tasty sauce. They were thoroughly addictive. Leyden hinted that a fried oyster mushroom po’boy might be coming soon.
Leyden worked at the nationally acclaimed Husk restaurant in Charleston, South Carolina. Its southern flavors are evident in some of the dishes served at Feast Food Co.
Another dish I tried was peas and carrots mixed with charred radishes. Snow peas and baby carrots were fresh from the farm. Ember-roasting the vegetables gives them a mild, smoky flavor and brings out the sweetness of the peas and carrots. The dish also included scallions and garlic chips. Leyden’s unique twist on this dish is using carrot tops instead of parsley for the chimichurri. The citrus of the chimichurri plays against the light coating of crème fraîche, which pulls it all together.
As everything I ordered was vegetable-based, I also chose the Pork Belly. It is mixed with grilled bok choy, scallions and big radish chunks, house-pickled mustard seeds and onions, Sambal (similar to Sriracha) mushroom sauce and nutty sesame seeds. Ember-roasting the garlic brings out the flavor without it becoming over-powering. The crispy pork and fresh vegetables present separately on the tastebuds but are perfectly complemented.
On my second visit, I tried the grits. The taste was similar to the pork belly but was distinctly southern. Creamy grits were mixed with chives and chiles topped with marinated pork in a mustard sauce made with house-pickled mustard seeds and ember-roasted garlic (placed right in the hot coals). Mustard greens added a green vegetable element while blending with the sauce. The strong mustard goes beautifully with onions and pork. If you eat a radish without the pork, it’s too much bite from the mustard and radish and is one-dimensional. It was best when each bite included some of the grits and pork.
For a more conventional dish, I tried the burger. Two juicy, smashed patties tasted like one thick burger. It was slathered in the Alabama white sauce, which contrasted with the crunchy fried onion straws and fresh pickles.
The meat was cooked perfectly, allowing the fresh flavors of the locally grown beef. It was a little messy and juicy, but the variety of textures and flavors were a delight.
Feast Food Co. is a surprising change from other food carts. It’s great for anyone who requires tasty gluten-free options, or if you are seeking healthy fresh food. Another plus is that you’ll know you are helping local farmers.