Dining options abound around Bend’s Galveston Avenue

Published 11:45 am Wednesday, September 1, 2021

A restaurant hotspot has developed along the blocks surrounding Northwest Galveston Avenue and Federal Street. The area is bookended by 10 Barrel Brewery to the West, Sunriver Brewery and Westside Tavern to the East, and The Lot food pod a block North on Columbia. In a few short blocks, the whole family can find something to eat.

If you live in the westside neighborhood, you probably are aware of the options, or perhaps you’ve seen what’s in the area while detouring away from the construction on Newport Avenue. New restaurants are opening, such as the Italian fine dining restaurant Bosa, which I’ll be reviewing once it’s had time to iron out any kinks.

There are a few less apparent gems in the area that are not to be missed: Chowburger on Northwest Columbia Street and nearby Fratelli’s Pies are great takeout options. Kanona Cafe has ample indoor and outdoor space.

Chowburger

David Touvel’s Chowburger may share the Chow restaurant name, but it’s all that the two eateries have in common. Touvel opened Chowburger in 2020. He wanted a place to offer quality burgers and fries that could be served quickly, at a price that isn’t much more than you’d pay at a fast-food restaurant. The menu is minimal, but what Touvel does, he does well. Chowburger offers single or double Oregon grown (Painted Hills) hamburgers with or without cheese. The vegan option is made with a Beyond Burger and Daiya (non-dairy, gluten-free, soy-free) cheese, with vegan mayo on a vegan bun. Burgers range from $7 for a single to $10 for the vegan option.

Until recently, there were no fancy burger toppings. Burgers come with American cheese, shredded lettuce, tomato, onion, bread-and-butter pickle, ketchup, mustard, and mayo on a firm potato bun. Bacon is now available for an extra dollar and grilled onions for 50 cents. A special burger, the Fungus Amongus — offers grilled onions, roasted mushrooms, provolone cheese and garlic mayo. It was an explosive harmony of flavors.

The burger meat is juicy to the point of needing a napkin or eating it over its box. Hefty-cut skin-on French fries are $3. They are crunchy and not too oily. The creamy insides retain their potato flavor and beg for a dip in ketchup. The fries don’t quickly get limp even if you can’t eat them right away.

Unfortunately, the milkshake machine was being temperamental in the hot weather, and I have yet to try one of the shakes. They offer the usual chocolate, strawberry and vanilla flavors, but also mixed berry and peppermint. Other flavors include Oreo, orange Fanta, peanut butter, and coconut. Seasonal shakes are also offered — pumpkin is coming soon. Touvel plans on opening more Chowburgers around Oregon, including reopening the Sisters location. It’s a perfect alternative to fast food burgers.

Kanona Cafe

Further West, Kanona Cafe has been around since 2017. Originally named the DaKine Cafe, the name was changed about two and a half years ago. Shannon and Andy Harlin own the restaurant. Kanona means “summer fruit tree” in Japanese, and Kanona is also “Shannon” in Hawaiian.

Shannon has family in Hawaii, and the couple and their family have spent time in Maui and on the Big Island. While the menu is influenced by Hawaiian surf culture, it’s not the typical Hawaiian mix plate. Andy explained that the “Inspiration is Brazilian — the açaí — from Hawaii’s surfer/vegan lifestyle, and what Australia is doing with cafe foods. Everything here is well balanced.” The restaurant’s interior is a nod to the Hawaiian/surfer roots with surfboards on the walls.

Shannon did not have ambitions to be a chef. She learned from her mother, who made everything from scratch. This developed her palate and a knack for making healthy food. The secret is in the right combinations of ingredients and adding them in an order that maintains flavor, freshness and moisture. (Poorly made raw foods can come out tasting like cardboard.)

The cafe is part-coffee shop, offering high-quality java and special drinks to improve your health. Wellness lattes include Matcha and Turmeric, as well as Beetroot, made of dried beetroot, ginger and coconut blossom sugar; Butterfly Flower, with butterfly pea flower, coconut blossom sugar and ginger; and the Purple Potato, with purple potato, pea flower and beetroot.

A few pastries were brought in from other bakeries, including a Sparrow Ocean Roll, and newly offered Kanona Bites. Kanona Bites are vegan, organic and gluten-free. Almond butter (or peanut butter) is combined with oats, raw maple, coconut oil, pea protein, chia seeds, hemp seeds, flaxseeds, almond pieces, cacao nibs, cinnamon, dates and an imperceptible amount of coconut. If you have a peanut allergy, be sure to check, as I think I found peanuts in the Almond Butter Bite. Unlike many protein balls that become hard and dry, this was malleable, creamy and crunchy. It went perfectly with a cup of coffee.

Another great breakfast or anytime choice are the toasts. Kanona partnered with Jackson’s Corner to bring in a sourdough oven wheat bread. While not gluten-free, its minimal ingredients are tolerable for many people who have mild gluten reactions (but not those with celiac disease). The Beet Hummus was a surprise and delight as the bright red spread had no bitterness and was topped with an avocado slice and micro-greens. Lemon is provided to balance any extra sweetness.

It was afternoon, so I ordered the Pink Pitaya smoothie with red dragon fruit, banana, mango, coconut milk and hemp seeds. The balance of flavors was perfect in this smooth, thick fruit blend whose dominant flavor was the red dragon fruit.

On another visit, I tried the Warrior Açai bowl. Andy explained that while the base of the bowl may taste like cool chocolate pudding, it is a superfood mixture of açai, pea protein and raw cacao. The açai was covered in granola, sliced banana, blueberries, and cacao nibs. It was hard to believe that this luscious bowl of fruits and goodies was so nutritious. I’ll surely be getting this again soon.

Fratelli Pies

Across from Kanona Cafe is Fratelli Pies. Opened by the owners of Pflücke, it has a 1920s illegal/underground theme, reflected in the names of the pizzas, the website and the delivery vehicles. The pizzas are available for pickup or delivery west of Highway 97.

Fratelli’s pies are made with buttery crusts and fresh ingredients. The sausages are either imported quality meats or house-made. Specialty pizzas include Blackberry Honey Pot with crumbled goat cheese and the Chicken Bacon Smoking Gun with Pflücke “haus-smoked chicken” and smoked mozzarella. The Fratelli pepperoni pizza is also unique as it has pepperoni on top and diced pepperoni under the top layer. The sauces taste fresh and reveal well-balanced Italian seasoning. Fresh mozzarella can be substituted for shredded cheese. If you don’t like the combinations on the menu, you can create your own pizza.

Like many restaurants, Fratelli Pies has struggled with staffing issues. They will be closed for the first weeks of September as they bring in new employees. Be sure to call ahead, and check them out when they reopen.

What: Chowburger

Where: 735 NW Columbia St., Bend

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. (call to confirm due to staffing)

Contact: bendinspoon.com/chow-burger-menu or 541-797-7772

What: Kanona Cafe

Where: 1142 NW Galveston Ave., Bend

Hours: 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily

Contact: kanonacafe.com or 541-318-6313

What: Fratelli Pies

Where: 1227 NW Galveston Ave., Bend

Hours: 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. for pickup and delivery (closed first part of September)

Contact: fratellipies.com or 541-241-4272

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