Prairie lupin grows in abundance on the pumice shores of Crescent Lake in June.

I had just backed my car into the site at Crescent Lake’s Contorta Flat Campground when I saw a thick, black mass of mosquitos descend over the windshield. I gulped in hesitation, remembering where I had stashed my can of bug spray, then made a mad dash from the driver’s seat to the back and dove for that sweet 40% DEET, dousing every inch of skin and clothing, hoping it would help keep the little bloodsuckers from chowing down on my type A.

Since I came home with over 80 welts on my ankles and feet, it did not work as planned.

However, despite the biblical swarms we contended with, with no wind (hence the skeeters), temps in the mid-70s and a sky like no other, you couldn’t have asked for better weather last Friday night at Crescent Lake, about 35 miles southwest of La Pine. It was a weekend of highs and lows in terms of weather and bugs, but it kicked off the summer in a quintessentially Central Oregon way — from shedding layers then immediately adding them back, being eaten alive by mosquitos, then marveling at this gorgeous place and loving every minute of it.

Under the stars

Contorta Flat is the last public campground as you make your way around Crescent Lake, located about two miles after the pavement ends.

There is a well-maintained vault toilet, but there is no water, so bring your own full jugs or plan on carrying them to nearby Spring Campground to fill up.

With only 18 sites, it can fill up fast and can be booked out far in advance, though some tent sites do remain first come, first serve.

Each space at Contorta is flat and relatively free of rocks or roots, which can really be a pain in the back for tent campers, and each site offers plenty of room for at least a couple of larger tents. Add in the clear skies at night and you have a recipe for a near-perfect weekend under the stars.

If you score a lakeside site, you will be met with a great view of Red Top Mountain to the north and Royce Mountain to the west, as well as the turquoise waters of Crescent Lake. As a result of lower-than-normal water levels (keep reading to learn why), the beaches here are wide, and in the early summer full of purple prairie lupin which only adds to the idyllic scenery of the lake. Take a stroll on the gently sloping shore from the campground, and you’re met with a stunning view of Diamond Peak to the west. If you walk in that direction, you’ll see an equally gorgeous view of the craggy Cowhorn Mountain to the south.

Thanks to a shoreline of white pumice rock and sand, the water takes on a blue-green tone. The lake remains clear thanks to its sandy shores making it great for both swimming and fishing.

Home to kokanee, lake, rainbow and brown trout, the lake trout pulled out can range from 5 to 10 pounds, but anglers are limited to just one per day (24-inch minimum) of that species.

From glaciers to dams

Crescent Lake was formed behind a moraine dam after a glacial retreat in the Pleistocene epoch, filling the deep basin with snowmelt every year until the brilliant, blue lake was established. When folks began settling in Central Oregon and began needing more water for irrigation up north, Crescent was one of the lakes that was used for that purpose with a small dam built in 1909. But in 1956, a new, earthen dam was built under the Bureau of Reclamation raising the water level and creating extra storage. Tumalo Irrigation District now manages the dam.

After years of extremely low water levels, Crescent is slowly recovering, but not nearly as dramatically as other lakes in the region. Currently, the Bureau of Reclamation lists it at 20% of a full pool. What separates Crescent Lake from other reservoirs is that its water is not used until it reaches beyond its natural level, according to the irrigation district website as the district does not have “rights to the natural lake under the increased level from the dam.”

Because the lake is very deep — 265 feet at full pool — it’s slow to fill. It may be a while before the water rises to its usual level.

Camping etiquette 101

I feel more and more like an old lady yelling at “kids these days” every time I go out and explore. This weekend only added to it.

First off, I am perfectly fine with campers listening to music at their campsite while enjoying their day as long as it is at a reasonable volume.

But once it passes 10 p.m., the socially agreed upon “quiet-time” and campground rule is that’s time to turn it off. You don’t have to go to bed, but no one else wants to hear the bass still booming from across the campground after midnight.

Another basic rule of etiquette (and another campground rule) involves leashing your dog. I don’t care how friendly Fido is, or how well-trained they are, or how much I love dogs, I don’t want them running through my campsite or hearing you constantly trying to call them back while I’m sipping on my cider by a campfire. Beyond just being annoying and aggravating, it’s also dangerous at campgrounds where cars may not be able to see them until it is too late. Leash your pups.

The colors of summer

Crescent Lake is more than just a nice, easily accessible place to camp for Central Oregonians. It also boasts several day-use areas and the Crescent Lake Resort, which has cabins, boats and Jet Skis available for rent and a bar and grill open Thursdays through Sundays, according to its website.

From Crescent Lake’s clear, sapphire waters surrounded by gently sloping, white pumice beaches and bordered by verdant pine forests with looming buttes and mountains, you’ll find yourself taken aback by this tranquil gem in the Cascades.

Just don’t forget the bug spray.

What: Contorta Flat Campground, Crescent Lake

When: Open June through mid-October, weather dependent

Cost: $25 per night, $10 per extra vehicle per night

Contact: recreation.gov for reservations

How to get there: From La Pine, drive south on U.S. Highway 97 for 17.5 miles, then turn right at the Crescent Cutoff Road. Drive for 12 miles, then turn right onto Oregon Highway 58. Drive 3.5 miles and turn left onto OR-429 S. Drive for 2.2 miles and turn right onto Crescent Lake Road toward campgrounds. Follow the road for about 5 miles, then turn left at the Contorta Campgrounds sign. Contorta Flat Campground is a little over a mile down the dirt road, after the group campground.