It’s that time of summer when there seem to be more vegetable questions than there are answers. Most questions revolve around our desire to beat the tomato production of last year. The problem in setting those expectations is that this is Central Oregon; every year is different and especially this year.

Before you blame yourself for every bump and blemish, review the ideal growing conditions for a tomato. The ideal temperature for the growing and ripening process is between 75-85 degrees. When the temperature hits the 90 degree mark, the ripening process shuts down. Compare those temperatures to those you recorded in your garden journal and you will notice that we had swings from the 60s to the 90s and back down again in late May and June. The temperatures in the 60s would affect the quality of pollination.

I experienced blossom-end rot on one fruit that developed at the beginning of the season. Blossom-end rot shows itself as a gray to black spot on the blossom end (opposite the stem) of the tomato. It can develop on the green fruit as well as the ripe.

The condition is caused due to deficiency in the uptake of calcium, which is in the soil. Moisture stress either from very wet or very dry conditions contribute to how the calcium is delivered to the plant. More fertilizer would not be the answer. Monitoring the irrigation schedule and the temperatures early in the season would be helpful.

Tomatoes are not heavy feeders. Low nitrogen (the first number of the fertilizer formula) is applied at planting and again when tomatoes need the extra energy to set fruit. Watering should decrease once the tomatoes are ripening.

Catfacing is a term used to describe misshapen fruit with irregular bulges at the blossom end and bands of leathery scar tissue. Cold weather at the time of blossom set distorts and kills certain cells that should develop into fruit, causing the fruit to pucker and have deep crevices. It is a problem most common in the large fruited beefsteak tomatoes.

Zippering is a thin, dark line connecting the stem and blossom ends of the fruit. It is cause by poor pollination due to cold temperatures.

Fruit cracks or tomato splitting is a problem that is caused by our generosity with water. I grow my tomatoes in a greenhouse and on the days when the temperature was registering over 100 degrees in the greenhouse, I was sure they needed more water, when what is needed is an improved cooling system. The sudden uptake of water causes internal fruit tissues to grow faster than the skin, causing the skin to crack or split. The fruit is still edible.

Physiological leafroll sounds and looks alarming. Leafroll occurs when the edges of the leaves roll upward and inward. Sometimes it may curl to the opposite side. It is a self-defense method of preventing further water loss. Leafroll does not reduce plant growth, yield, or fruit quality. It is believed to result from irregular water supply and may be intensified following pruning. The symptoms may be temporary but can persist throughout the growing season.

There is always the good, the bad, and the ugly. The good is that we are starting to enjoy some of the fruits of our labor. The bad is some of the problems we try to solve. And the just plain ugly is the dreaded tomato hornworm.

I have had two reports of seeing the hummingbird moth, which could be exciting if you don’t know the “facts, m’am.”

The hornworm looks like a mini-prehistoric monster. It can be up to 5 inches long, is bright green with a black horn on its posterior. They feed on the leaves of the tomato and can defoliate an entire plant overnight.

They are masters of camouflage blending perfectly with the plant. Be sure and look under the leaves. A telltale sign that you have a visitor is the black frass (droppings) on the leaves. The control measure is to handpick and destroy.

My advice to those who maybe enjoying the hummingbird moth, be sure and warn your tomato growing neighbors to be vigilant about checking their plants for the hornworm.

A tradition that has followed families over the years is how to ripen a tomato. You should place it on a sunny windowsill, no. The best method is to leave them on the countertop out of the sun and never refrigerate them.