Downtown Bend’s new cocktail bar, Dear Irene, has entered the dining scene with an opulent, upscale dining experience down to the smallest detail. Chef Jonny Becklund and his wife Irene Becklund have brought their vision to life with top-notch food, a bar-forward concept and a stunning space.

The concept is influenced by Jonny’s tasting-menu restaurant in San Francisco, which he sold during the pandemic. It had 12 seats, with customers arranged around the kitchen and a menu that changed by the week.

It was where he and Irene met 10 years ago.

“I said I would only go on a date if the food was good that night. And the food was excellent,” Irene said.

Irene, originally from Russia, said that while the bar is named after her, Jonny is the face of the concept. Jonny handles the dinner and cocktail menu, the wine program and the spirits program while Irene oversees the business and accounting aspects behind the scenes.

Pull Quote

“We put our soul into this, so we want (the name) to represent everything we’re about.”

The bar’s name carries a double meaning for the couple, who wanted it to be named after a drink due to its bar-forward concept. The Becklunds frequented a bar in Oakland where there was one drink Jonny said he would drink a lot — the Dear Irene.

“We put our soul into this, so we want (the name) to represent everything we’re about,” Irene said. “It’s personal. It’s us.”

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Sourcing high quality ingredients

Jonny’s love of food spills into all aspects of his life and he is continuously on the hunt for the best quality ingredients. Dear Irene’s menu is awash with indulgences such as caviar, quail and duck. It’s seafood-heavy, inspired by Jonny’s favorite food — raw fish.

Rather than ordering Ora King salmon for the king salmon crudo ($22), he sources Regal King salmon from New Zealand, the highest quality salmon on the market, he said. When his source asked why he wasn’t interested in the Ora King salmon, popular among many restaurants for its comparable quality and lower price, Jonny said, “No no no, that’s not what we do here.”

“I try to get the best ingredients that we possibly can,” he said.

The grilled avocado with trout roe ($18) is made with Danish trout roe transported from Maine overnight. Also on the starter menu are fresh seared scallops ($28), which are shucked in the morning in Massachusetts, packed and overnighted to Bend within 24 hours of being alive, Jonny said.

Jonny plans to make Dear Irene a departure from the ever-changing menu of his last restaurant, Mr. Pollo, by refreshing the menu with the changing of the seasons rather than on a weekly basis. However, he couldn’t help but introduce the scallops, which appeared on the menu Aug. 8 and were the top-selling item as of last week, he said.

Other dishes that have become fan favorites within the restaurant’s first weeks of operation are the Spanish prawns ($20) and short ribs ($40).

Those celebrating a special occasion may be interested in splurging on the bar’s signature Dear Irene cocktail ($16) with a side of caviar (add $40), an homage to Irene’s Russian roots.

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Fresh day boat scallops and short ribs

On my visit, I enjoyed the comfortably numb cocktail ($15) with scallops and short ribs. The cocktail was neatly presented in a low glass with a square ice cube and a leaf of Thai basil. Elements of the Plantation 3 Stars rum, Thai basil, pineapple gum syrup, Sichuan peppercorn and lime wound together for a cocktail with depth. Its name references the slight yet pleasant numbing sensation caused by the peppercorn.

The scallop starter consisted of three seared scallops on a bed of melted leeks. Each scallop was topped with a dollop of a sweet-tart jammy cherry sauce mixed with pine nuts. Three exceptionally crispy pieces of prosciutto were carefully placed between each scallop. The flavors of each component of the dish were satisfyingly robust, however, the ingredients didn’t marry in the way I hoped.

It’s no surprise the short ribs have become what Irene considers as a menu staple.

The beef arrived at the table still steaming, accompanied by bone marrow and al dente fingerling potatoes and sugar snap peas. The short ribs, cooked to perfection, offered a meaty richness that was further enhanced by the bone marrow and delicately balanced by the crispiness of the vegetables and an acidic sauce. Freshly chopped parsley was the finishing touch on this knockout dish.

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It all started with the wallpaper

The bar’s rich decor, with touches of gold throughout, contributes to the luxuriousness of the experience.

The founding decor piece is a large-patterned vibrant blue and gold wallpaper by U.K.-based artist and designer Esté MacLeod.

It’s the small details that make a difference in the intimate space, which is limited to 40 customers, 14 of which are seated at the bar. A close look at the grout between the turquoise tiles beneath the bar reveals it matches the color of the roof. Coasters were printed with the same patterns as the wallpapers in each bathroom.

“Every inch matters,” Irene said.

Dear Irene has brought extravagance to downtown Bend, establishing itself as the place for an evening of celebration, luxury and decadence of the finest degree.

Given most of the intimate restaurant is within range of the bar, it’s limited to guests 21 years of age and older and is accessible via a few steps in Brooks Alley with an ADA-accessible entrance on Wall Street. It occupies the former space of Taj Palace Indian Cuisine and Wall Street Bar and was issued a brand new address by the city: 926 NW Brooks St.

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Details

Location: Brooks Alley, 926 NW Brooks St., Bend

Contact: dearirenebend.com, 541-253-7523, @dearirenebend

Hours: 4:30-9:30 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday

Price Range: $14-$40 per menu item

Cuisine: Cocktail bar, American