A matsutake mushroom seen in the Deschutes National Forest in 2019.

Nestled comfortably in an underlayer of moist soil between pine and fir trees, you might spot some baby matsutake mushrooms growing upwards, a little mounded, with yellowy caps. Once they grow up fully, they’re a soft white with amber stains and perfect for your next meal.

The 2023 matsutake mushroom season is officially here, and the Deschutes National Forest will be open Tuesday to Nov. 6 for people interested in commercially harvesting any matsutake mushrooms for resale.

Those interested must purchase a commercial permit from the U.S. Forest Service district office closest to where they plan on harvesting the mushrooms. Permits are $200 for the full 62-day season and $100 for a half-season permit, or 31 days. You can also purchase a three-day minimum permit, which is $8 per day. The three days you pick do not need to be consecutive.

The Forest Service requires commercial harvesters to have a harvest area map in their possession to be able to gather, transport or sell mushrooms gathered from the forest. Tools used for matsutake harvesting cannot exceed 1 inch wide and 18 inches long. Raking or disturbing the forest ground in any other manner is not allowed.

Linda Gilpin, one of the founders of Central Oregon Mushroom Club, warned foragers that matsutake are often mistaken for amanita, a toxic mushroom. To stay safe, it’s important to know the difference between the two.

“Matsutakes are very firm, have a distinct smell of funky cinnamon, or spiciness, more amber staining spots on cap and stem as they age. The bottom of the firm stem tapers down,” Gilpin said. “Amanitas have softer stems that are more rounded at the bottom. They have material or crumbly rings around the base of the stalk and they often have pieces of material on top of the cap. No distinct smell.”

Matsutakes are far more common than amanitas, she said, but they can grow in the same area.

“Getting it wrong can mean a very serious trip to the hospital, but with careful observation of each specimen, you can get it right,” Gilpin said.

She describes matsutakes as really firm, meaty mushrooms.

“They’re really tasty,” Gilpin said. “They’re kind of resiny, kind of a spicy, funky, cinammony taste. They’re really great in Asian food, any kind of miso soup, excellent in stir-fry though some people just don’t like them.”

September to late October is the typical time range for mushroom hunting, though Gilpin said the season continues until the forest basically freezes, which can happen later in November. At this time, you can find matsutake, white chanterelles and king bolete or porcini mushrooms. The next season for mushroom foraging is from May to June, when you can find morel mushrooms.

If mushroom season seems really infrequent, that’s because it is.

“Our seasons are so short here,” Gilpin explained. “Either it’s too cold and snowy or it’s too hot and dry.”

Wildfire season has only worsened the mushroom harvesting timeline and limited the areas where hunters can forage, she said.

Bend is a naturally dry climate, and mushrooms thrive in moisture. Seek out springs, lakesides, river sides or small indentations in the dirt where moisture might linger.

Santiam Pass, McKenzie Pass, Camp Sherman and areas along the Santiam River produce fruitful amounts of mushrooms. Mountain passes in general are most moist, Gilpin said, and also have more types of conifer trees, which draw more chanterelles and boletes because of increased moisture.

In Bend, sagebrush and juniper are the most common trees and bushes, and mushrooms don’t grow much near them.

Commercial harvesters who plan on camping on national forestland must have written permission from the Forest Service to do so. Alternatively, as of Aug. 28, Little Odell Industrial Camp near Crescent Lake opened a campground for commercial harvesters, allowing up to eight people and two vehicles. Fire pits, garbage service and portable restrooms are available, but water is not. For more information about this camp, contact the Crescent Ranger District at 541-433-3200.

Above all, the Forest Service emphasizes that people must follow current public fire use restrictions.