A guide to negotiating the smoke when pursuing outdoor activities

Published 6:30 am Friday, September 1, 2023

From left, South Sister, Middle Sister and Broken Top as viewed from the summit of Tumalo Mountain.

As I obsessively check map.purpleair.com every hour in search of elusive green circles signaling good air, I am beginning to learn a few things about smoke season in Central Oregon.

1. You can usually find somewhere in the region with decent air quality. Not always, but chances are a relatively short drive will lead to clear air for your hike, run, bike ride, fishing outing or whatever.

2. Like the snow line, the smoke line can be finite. You could be stuck in an apocalyptic haze at your house, while 2 miles away there are bright blue skies. A couple of weeks ago half of Bend was red (unhealthy) and the other half was green. I swear one day I walked outside my house and the right side of my street was clear and the left side was smoky.

3. It will end. Right? Right!? Yes. While much of August and September is filled with trips to the gym and canceled athletic events, come October, the haze typically clears and we can get back to hiking, trail running and mountain biking — until the snow arrives, at least.

As I write this, it is Tuesday morning and most of Central Oregon is red, purple (very unhealthy) or maroon (hazardous). But I see a few pockets of green and yellow (moderate).

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Bearing in mind that the air quality changes day to day, hour to our, minute to minute, here are a few places in or near Central Oregon that MIGHT have acceptable air when Bend appears ready for the arrival of the Four Horsemen.

Suttle Lake/Camp Sherman

Just a few miles northwest of Sisters, Suttle Lake offers camping, swimming, mountain biking and hiking. The trail around the lake is ideal for an easy hike or bike ride with the family, and it includes dramatic views of Mount Washington.

Camp Sherman offers fly-fishing and hiking along the crystal clear Metolius River. A beginner mountain bike trail also runs from Camp Sherman to Suttle Lake.

Also in the area, Black Butte is a relatively short hike to the top. Hikers on the 2-mile route up Black Butte can see a variety of Cascade mountain peaks from the trail above the tree line and from the 6,436-foot summit, including Mount Jefferson, Three Fingered Jack, Mount Washington, the Three Sisters and Broken Top. The trail climbs 1,600 feet over the course of the 2 miles.

Oakridge

About a 1 hour, 45 minute drive southwest from Bend, Oakridge is a mountain biking hotspot. Singletrack trails near Oakridge offer swooping descents through the verdant green Willamette National Forest.

Some of the best trails include Alpine and the Middle Fork of the Willamette. Shuttling is often the best option for these trails, as they include some difficult climbing sections.

On the Middle Fork of the Willamette Trail, the first 4 miles of the trail from Timpanogas are steep, extremely technical, expert-only sections where the trail descends sharply. Fortunately, many trailheads and campgrounds are located along Forest Service Road 21, which runs south and east from Oakridge. So bikers can opt for an out-and-back ride from Sand Prairie Campground, located at about 2,000 feet in elevation, or shuttle up to a starting point of their choosing.

Mount Bachelor

Mt. Bachelor ski area offers the chairlift-accessible Bachelor Bike Park, which includes downhill trails rated from beginner to advanced.

Another option for mountain bikers in the area is an out-and-bike ride from Dutchman Flat Sno-park along the Flagline and Metolius-Windigo trails. This includes a challenging climb, close-up views of Broken Top, and a couple of creek crossings. Bikers can also enjoy high-alpine meadows after climbing from 6,350 feet in elevation to nearly 7,000 feet.

Also from Dutchman Flat Sno-park, the hike to the summit of Tumalo Mountain is short, steep 2-mile trek. The 4-plus mile round-trip can be completed in about two hours or less, and includes panoramic views of the Three Sisters and Broken Top.

If all else fails in your quest for clear air, head to Portland, the Willamette Valley or the Oregon Coast.

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