Light beers ahead: Van Henion Brewing’s crisp, sessionable Leichtbier Light Lager

Published 7:45 am Tuesday, April 2, 2024

Van Henion Brewing Co. recently released a brand-new beer that is the result of a collaboration with hop supplier Hollingbery and Son Hops and grower Virgil Gamache Farms, both from Yakima, Washington.

Brewer and co-founder Dana Henion came up with the idea for the beer, and worked with Randin King and Tim Wallen from each company.

While you might expect that a collaboration with two hop companies would result in an IPA or similar style, she chose something less common — German-style Leichtbier, a light lager.

“I wanted to make a 5% or lower German style beer. We have made most styles that fit that category,” she said via email. “I came across Leichtbier doing some research and was excited to try to make one.”

Not a common style

Leichtbier, literally German for “light beer,” traces its roots to German pale lagers such as Helles and pilsner lagers.

Light versions of these beers were historically brewed to be served to factory and fieldworkers as a lower-alcohol product to quench their thirst without being debilitating. These were simply considered weaker versions of established styles.

Modern interpretations draw inspiration from American light lagers, in which they are primarily marketed as a “diet” class of beer with lower carbs, calories and alcohol than standard brews. But don’t assume that Leichtbier is simply the German equivalent of Bud Light or Miller Lite; most similarities end with the marketing.

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To begin with, Leichtbiers are all-malt beers designed to be flavorful, without the use of adjuncts such as corn or rice to lighten the body.

Despite that, they tend to be even lower in alcohol than their American counterparts, which are typically 4.2% alcohol by volume; the guidelines for Leichtbier give a range of 2.4% to 3.6% ABV.

They are relatively highly hopped with a noticeable hop aroma and a moderate bitterness, which complement the malt for a flavorful experience despite the light body.

How does Leichtbier taste?

The recipe Henion developed starts with pilsner, pale pilsner, and acidulated (slightly soured) malt. King from Hollingbery provided German Tradition (Hallertauer) hops, and Wallen from Virgil Gamache provided Idaho Sonnet hops, known for lemon and citrus characteristics.

“We decided on quantities after rubbing them on the brew day,” said Henion. “We decided to go with Sonnets as a late addition hop. That is what imparts the lemon like aroma/flavor.”

Henion provided me with cans of Leichtbier to review. This version is 3.8% ABV with 25 IBUs.

It is quite pale, a straw color with nice clarity and an effervescent white head. The aroma is light, as you’d expect, with a delicate hop bouquet that has notes of lemon and a touch of peppery spice. A rich graininess follows and rounds it out, reminding me of whole grain toast.

It’s light, crisp, and bready on the tongue, with a mellow, earthy-peppery hop bitterness that’s well balanced and refreshing, and it seems to offer a bit of a boost to the body. It’s dry with a long finish that highlights that hop bitterness, and while it’s light in mouthfeel it’s not thin or watery.

Overall, I found it to deliver on the promise of a light lager that still brings plenty of aroma and flavor. It’s sessionable and refreshing, with enough character to keep you sipping. With only 3.8% alcohol, you’ll be able to enjoy several in a single sitting without feeling overly tipsy.

I asked if Leichtbier was meant to only be a one-off specialty, or if it would be a year-round brew.

“We aren’t sure yet. It was meant to be a one off, but we are getting good feedback,” Henion said. “We might carry it through the summer, brew a few more batches.”

Leichtbier is available on draft and in cans now, and I predict it will be an easy-drinking, popular choice as the weather warms.

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