As the weather becomes warmer, it’s time to start considering summertime beer styles, and one that is often overlooked in favor of pilsners, session IPAs, fruited sours, and more is a classic hybrid style from Germany — kölsch.

Unlike most styles that developed in Germany — that is to say, lagers — kölsch is an ale, brewed warm with top fermenting yeast. After fermentation, however, it undergoes a period of cold conditioning, or lagering, which smooths out the flavors and gives it a lager-like drinkability.

It’s a lighter-bodied, pale golden ale that should have brilliant clarity, and the hallmark of the style is its delicate balance of malt, fruitiness and hop character. Hop bitterness should be noticeable but never too high, and floral, spicy, or herbal hop flavors are often present. It finishes smooth, soft, and dry, but never harsh.

Legally brewed

Kölsch originated in the German city of Cologne (or Köln in German), and it is only found in Cologne — literally. Kölsch is brewed and served exclusively in the city and nowhere else in Germany (or Europe for that matter).

This is due in part to the Kölsch Konvention of 1986, in which 24 brewers from Cologne and the vicinity agreed to the brewing process to be followed and restricted the use of the name “kölsch” to the local breweries. After Germany joined the European Union, kölsch was given a protected geographical indication in 1997.

This means that in Europe, kölsch can only legally be brewed in Cologne. American breweries, however, often ignore these rules of appellation, and as such it’s not uncommon to find beers inspired by the style labeled as kölsch in the States. Some strive to be authentic versions of the style, while others add American twists in the spirit of it.

Often, kölsch can be indistinguishable from similar styles such as cream ale, blonde or golden ale, or even pilsner. The differences can be subtle, but in general it should exhibit the best characteristics of a lighter fruity ale and a crisp lager.

Surveying the local landscape, several breweries have kölsch style ales currently available.

Sensual Summer Ale

Initiative Brewing Co. (5.5% ABV, 24 IBUs)

Initiative calls its new summer ale a “fusion of NW brewing and German tradition,” putting a spin on the traditional recipe with a dry hopping regimen reminiscent of American pale ales and IPAs. The resulting hop character is spicy and fruity with notes of orange and a hint of strawberries.

Crux Kolsch

Crux Fermentation Project (5.3% ABV, 24 IBUs)

Crux acknowledges that its version of the style differs from a “true” kölsch since it was brewed in Bend and incorporates a bit of wheat into the recipe.

It balances a toasty malt with lightly vinous fruity notes and finishes dry and crisp.

German Kölsch-Style Ale

Van Henion Brewing Co. (5% ABV, 22 IBUs)

Part of the year-round lineup from the brewery, this version adheres to tradition with a recipe featuring German pilsner malt and Hallertau Mittelfruh hops.

It’s a crisp, spritzy ale that exhibits an herbal hoppiness with a refreshing finish. It is available in cans.

Abiqua Creek Kölsch

Worthy Brewing Co. (5.9% ABV)

Worthy only just released this new ale, brewed with malts from Mecca Grade Estate Malt of Madras.

As summer beers ramp up, look for these and other kölsch-style ales to enjoy while the weather is hot.