Since 2018, Gurbachan Singh has driven a semi-truck along the long route between California and Washington. His work as a truck driver can be both grueling and freeing, Singh said. Long hours on the road, physical limitations and isolation can all wear down a driver.

And then there’s the constant search for a good meal.

Traveling on U.S. Highway 97 during a routine trip, Singh was excited and relieved to find Amayah’s Cafe in Biggs Junction, noting there aren’t many options for food, much less authentic North Indian cuisine.

“It’s kind of like — at least it used to be — a hidden spot,” said Singh, who found the location a couple of years ago. “Even I didn’t know about it.”

At the crossroads of Interstate 84 and Highway 97 in the Columbia River Gorge, Biggs Junction might seem like just another quick stop for gas and snacks. But for many South Asian truck drivers who travel the highway, the intersection is a goldmine with some of their favorite Indian food in Oregon.

After trying the shahi paneer from Amayah’s Cafe, Singh was hooked.

“I can tell a good restaurant apart by their shahi paneer,” he said. “It’s the easiest to make but also the hardest at the same time.”

Amayah’s Cafe and Sizzling Tandoori Hut, two food stalls positioned across the street from each other, operate their locations with a shared goal: nourishing South Asian truckers with a taste of home.

Amayah’s Cafe, the first food truck on the block, opened in 2022. Named after co-owner Babita Kainth’s daughter, the cafe is the third spot owned by Kainth and her business partner, Atanu Das. The Biggs Junction location was established as a gesture of appreciation for truck drivers passing through the area.

According to Raman Dhillon, CEO of the North American Punjabi Trucking Association, over 20% of U.S. truck drivers are Punjabi — a region that encompasses the northern part of India and eastern Pakistan.

“They are the most important persons in our life, in everybody’s life, because if there is no truckers, then there would be a big problem for transportation everywhere,” Kainth said.

With food options limited along the 100 miles east toward Pendleton and 130 miles south toward Bend, Kainth was motivated to create a solution for truckers. Amayah’s Cafe offers traditional North Indian Punjabi cuisine — including aloo paratha, paneer kadai and dal tadka — alongside popular dishes like butter chicken, tikka masala, naan and samosas. Chef Das, from West Bengal, learned to cook at the Hotel Crowne Plaza in Bangalore.

The quality and convenience of Amayah’s Cafe have made stopping at Biggs Junction for a meal an essential part of Singh’s routine.

“The guy who runs the place, he’s a really nice guy,” Singh said about co-owner Das. “The food these guys make is really good, really authentic, like back home.”

According to Singh, Indian food can be overspiced at many big restaurants. “Too much flavor ruins the food and it’s not authentic anymore,” he said.

Other positives, Singh said, are the ability to customize his meals, order takeout in advance and support a small business. The qualities keep him returning to Biggs Junction for his favorite meal, shahi paneer, whenever he’s on the road.

“It’s better than the fast food joints like McDonald’s and other spots,” Singh said. “If you see most truck stops, they have fried food, it’s stale, not healthy. You know, at least with these spots — an Indian spot or a taco truck or something like that — you can customize the food to where it’s healthy.”

Kainth had a restaurant in Portland when she opened Amayah’s Cafe in Biggs Junction. Two years later, Kainth operates multiple food carts in Hood River and The Dalles, but her Portland location is closed.

Not long after Amayah’s Cafe arrived in Biggs Junction, Sizzling Tandoori Hut opened across the street. Owner Happy Singh was inspired by his own experiences and the success of his first truck stop in Aurora to open his second location.

“So this food idea for the truckers came up because I was myself a truck driver for a long time,” Happy Singh said. “Back in those days, when I was driving, it was very hard to find food on the road.”

Happy Singh’s Sizzling Tandoori Huts are designed with drivers in mind. At Biggs Junction, drivers can park their trucks on the side of the highway and relax in outdoor spaces furnished with Punjabi-style cots, lounge chairs and string lights. A nearby shipping container offers booth seating and a canopy to shield diners from the elements.

Happy Singh’s dedication to the community is also evident in his monthly Sangrand langar, where he provides free vegetarian food to truck drivers as part of the Sikh tradition known as Vand Chhako, which emphasizes sharing. Inspired by the teachings of Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Happy Singh’s efforts reflect a commitment to giving back.

“[The] Sikh community will see that kind of serving throughout the world, and I want to be a little part of it too,” Happy Singh said. “I feel so glad that I am doing that, I make sure that particular day I’m there and serving myself.”

Once a month, during the full moon, Happy Singh continues the tradition, which started in Aurora before expanding to his second location in Biggs Junction. It has become a favorite among truck drivers, many of whom appreciate the connection to Sikh teachings.

“It actually feels good, because this is a special day that we go to the church,” Happy Singh said. “If they can’t make it to the church … they are part of one of our guru’s [teachings].”

On Nov. 14, Happy Singh welcomed droves of truck drivers to his Aurora location near the Flying J Travel Center along Interstate 5, serving bread pakora, samosas, masala chai, gulab jamun, chips and soda.

During the first hour of serving free food, dozens of truck drivers passed through, filling to-go containers with snacks for the road. Many spent their break there, chatting with other drivers and enjoying the fresh food.

During those few hours, everyone is welcome to take as much food as they need, Happy Singh said. When asked about the potential impact on profitability, Singh said that it’s the last thing on his mind.

“We have another 29 days to make money,” he said. “So we can contribute our one day to God and for good faith. If somebody can’t afford something, we can help them. Sometimes, there’s so many of these people driving and truckers did not get paid or something. At least one day they can have a free meal.”

Dharmander Sharma, a truck driver for three years, visits the Aurora truck stop at least once a week, drawn back by the consistent and authentic Punjabi North Indian food. Many visitors cited the same reason, as well as the friendly service.

Singh plans to expand his offerings and launch a food stall featuring smash burgers in Biggs Junction, hoping to appeal to an even wider range of truck drivers.

Meanwhile, Sizzling Tandoori Hut and Amayah’s Cafe will continue to offer a taste of home for drivers on the road.

Amayah’s Cafe: 91689 Biggs Rufus Highway, Wasco; 331-472-9461; indiancurryandkababs.com

Sizzling Tandoori Hut: 91689 Biggs Rufus Highway, Wasco; 541-370-2126 and 12271 Melinda Lane N.E., Aurora; 503- 776-9177; sizzlingtandoorihut.com