Bend’s newest Japanese restaurant, Yokocho Izakaya, was designed to fill a gap in the city’s Asian cuisine offerings. Rather than sushi-grade fish, the majority of the menu is cooked, with small plates in the traditional izakaya style.

The focus is Japanese comfort food, with the incorporation of Asian and French influences, said Kwan Singhakahm, one of the four owners.

The four-person team behind Yokocho was the powerhouse behind the launch of the modern Thai restaurant Dear Mom Cafe in March 2023. Singhakahm and her partner Sunadda “Jeep” Rimrang relocated from New York to Bend to help Jattalee “JJ” Chalernhinthong and her husband, Ash Horachaikul, open the cafe, offering their talents as head chef and pastry chef, respectively.

The New Yorkers found their next opportunity in the building that formerly housed Orchid Thai near the intersection of Division Street and Revere Avenue.

Tokyo vibes

Walking through Yokocho’s doors feels like being transported to Tokyo. The owners shipped decorations from Japan and Thailand to transform the space with lanterns, flags and posters.

Many of the restaurant’s chairs are composed of milk crates, propped up on a couple of blocks of wood with a seat cushion affixed to the top. This isn’t the final iteration of the vision, however. Singhakahm said they envision beer crates to seat guests to imitate the street food experience common in Japanese alleyways. The team is working to ship beer crates from Japan, as none could be found in Bend, Singhakahm said.

Fusing traditions

Small plates feature yakitori, Japanese skewers, cooked over a charcoal grill. The charcoal flavor is imbued in the small bites, which are seasoned with a sweet gluten-free sauce. The combination of the salty and sweet flavors, results in a hit of umami.

Singhakahm is partial to the Tonkatsu curry ($20), one of the menu’s best-selling items. The pork is tenderized and then allowed to marinate overnight. The next morning, it’s coated in bread crumbs and deep-fried. The end result is a juicy interior and crispy exterior.

The same pork is also the star of Tonkatsu don ($18), in which it is sliced and served with a bowl of white rice. An addition of carrots, cucumber and pickled ginger adds a pop of color to the plate.

Part of the izakaya equation is alcohol, so Yokocho also offers sake, beer, wine, cocktails and mocktails. And although it’s an Asian restaurant, it aims to support local suppliers where possible, Singhakahm said.

The Momokawa Pearl Nigori sake ($18) is made by SakéOne, based in Forest Grove. It has bold tropical flavors of banana, pineapple, coconut and vanilla that pair nicely with sweet dishes and barbecue, according to the tasting notes.

For dessert, there’s mochi ice cream (2 pieces for $5) and Shibuya toast ($14). The toast is an Asian tea shop staple named after the Tokyo district where it originated.

A loaf of bread is hollowed out and typically filled with toasted bread, fruits and ice cream. Rimrang has recreated the dessert with brioche from Sparrow Bakery. The bread is heated in the oven before it is served, so it’s crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.

Details

What: Yokocho Izakaya

Location: 1900 NE Division St. #110, Bend

Contact: 458-836-7655, @yokochoizakaya.bend, menu available at order.toasttab.com

Hours: noon-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Thursday-Tuesday

Price Range: Entrees range between $16-$26