In the heat of the summer, a short bouldering session outside might be preferable to baking on the side of a wall in full sun at Smith Rock State Park. Solid quality boulder problems are scattered around Central Oregon. The proximity of many to the Deschutes River also make them refreshing places to spend a few hours even when it’s hot outside.

Nestled under the tall ponderosa pine trees on the west side of Century Drive not far from the entrance to Meadow Day Use, Widgi stays pretty shaded during the summer. Mornings make for the most magical time to climb as the cool, quiet, and stillness often allow for a calm focus. The evenings can be lovely too with perhaps more of a social vibe. Climbers have long gathered in the woods around the Widgi boulders testing their technique and strength while enjoying the company of others.

Arguably the most iconic bouldering area in Central Oregon, Widgi has classic climbs of various difficulty. Bouldering problems are rated using a “v” scale, with VO being the easiest and the higher the number indicating increased difficulty. The problems at Widgi also range from low to the ground traverses and high, heady, top outs that require climbers to maintain their composure.

The Widgi boulders were likely first explored in the 1990s. Some of Central Oregon’s most legendary climbers put up first ascents on the Widgi boulders. Many of these climbers can still be seen humbly sending hard climbs in the area. The area became recognized by the Forest Service in the 2000’s and a parking area was added. Around that time, even the renowned Chris Sharma climbed at Widgi. If it’s good enough for him, it’s probably worth checking out.

The Brain (V1)

Some may call it their warmup, others may take several attempts master this problem with moves over a bulbous boulder with good hand and foot holds. It tops out high enough to make it exciting, but not too.

Orange Marmalade (V2)

This problem could also either be a project to work on or an easy run up a rock, depending on the climber. According to the guidebook “Central Oregon Bouldering,” by Jason Chinchen, you’re not truly a local until you’ve participated in barefoot speed ascents of Orange Marmalade. That’s just how mentally and physically tough some of the old school climbers were. This problem has long moves that require commitment at the top. It’s one to try with a solid group to have extra pads, spotters and cheers for the send.

Captain America (V4)

Another long boulder problem with committing moves at the top, this one should be done with that pile of crash pads and good friends too. It requires technique with small edges and mental fortitude to finish strong.

Widgi Block (V6)

The Widgi Block is a freestanding boulder, recognizable for its clean lines and angles. There are multiple climbs on the boulder itself but the problem with the same name is the classic line. A climb of this difficulty requires some serious technique and training. Sending it would be a point of pride for any climber.

Lord of the Flies (V7)

This clean wall with its colorful streaks could almost be mistaken for limestone. Don’t be fooled. It is volcanic basalt like most of the other rock in Central Oregon. This classic problem climbs small holds called crimps. Take care to get over the edge and on top of the cliff at the end.

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Vertical Pioneers at Smith Rock, the birthplace of North American sport climbing

In addition to having many problems at various difficulty levels, Widgi is also family-friendly since the area around the boulders is pretty flat with no big cliffs or swift water that kids could fall into. Small rocks and slabs give kids a chance to try climbing themselves. It’s a lovely spot to hang out and have a picnic or have a little scavenger hunt to keep them occupied.

Be aware that the road into Widgi is closed from December through the end of March to protect deer winter habitat, which is another reason this area is prime in the summertime.

The second edition of the “Central Oregon Bouldering” was published a little more than a year ago and is the best resource for navigating Widgi or any other bouldering areas. Pick it up at one of the local gear shops such as Redpoint Climbing or Mountain Supply.