Enjoy gourmet comfort fare at the Boxwood Kitchen in Bend’s Old Mill District

Published 11:45 am Wednesday, October 5, 2022

Food

A combination between the Boxwood Kitchen & Supper Club’s website and the term “supper club” had given me the impression it was an exclusive, fine dining restaurant well beyond my budget. But when I stopped in for dinner last week, I discovered my initial impression was mistaken.

As I enjoyed the food and ambiance, I was reminded of its sister restaurant, Meadowlark, in Brookswood Meadow Plaza. I wished I would have come to patronize the Boxwood Kitchen in the Old Mill District sooner.

The Boxwood Kitchen, which began as an online-only restaurant in 2017, centers around gourmet comfort food served in a warm, welcoming atmosphere.

The Boxwood Kitchen and Meadowlark share a number of similarities, including an identical menu item, the Boxwood burger ($19). My partner has ordered the burger at both restaurants and has yet to be disappointed.

It’s a gourmet pub burger with well-balanced ingredients held together by a toasted brioche bun. It’s the bacon jam, which is complemented by a chipotle aioli, that makes this burger special. The fries served on the side were crispy and well-seasoned, and my partner, who is not a fan of pickles, appreciated that the sliced pickles came on the side rather than on the burger itself.

The seared tuna on the albacore tuna bowl ($21) was buttery, fresh and encrusted with black and white sesame seeds. It was served over a bowl of baby kale with red pickled onion, yellow pickled radish, sliced cucumber, purple cabbage, black rice and avocado. The kale was tossed in a miso vinaigrette that lent a sweet umami flavor to the dish. The stalks of the kale were a little too crunchy, and I would have liked a little more rice. But overall, the bowl was as satisfying as the pinks, purples, yellows and greens of its ingredients were vibrant.

And while I don’t often order dessert, I was still a tad hungry after finishing the tuna bowl. It made the flourless chocolate cake ($12) and cheesecake ($12) on the dessert menu all the more tempting.

I gave in to the cheesecake, made with raspberry reduction and fresh berries. It was well worth the cost — and the calories. The raspberry reduction was bright and tart over the cold and creamy upper layer of the cheesecake. The gluten-free graham cracker crust on the bottom was soft and spicy.

Service

The food arrived at the table so quickly that I was surprised. The service was friendly and efficient, although a little rushed. I intentionally kept my fork in my hand so that the server wouldn’t take my plate away.

Atmosphere

The lighting was soft and the wall next to our table was painted a soothing shade of yellow, emanating a sense of calm. Each table was decorated with a unique plant. A TV silently projected onto the wall behind the bar, allowing diners to watch the game without being intrusive.

More info

Location: 330 SW Powerhouse Drive, Building C, #150, Bend

Contact: 541-797-0182, boxwoodkitchen.com

Hours: 5 p.m.-close daily

Price Range: $10-$38 per menu item

Cuisine: New American

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