Restaurant review: Cascada at Pronghorn Resort

Published 11:45 am Wednesday, December 15, 2021

Cascada at Pronghorn Resort is not just an eatery for the golf players, it is its own destination. The restaurant is marketed as Italian cuisine. Executive Chef Kevin Linde has focused on what you would find at a Tuscan kitchen with some European-inspired starters, specialty meats and different kinds of pasta.

Linde, who won Top Chef in the Bite of Bend competition in 2016, has assembled an impressive team. His executive sous chef, Ryan Eisert, has an admirable resume. After working in high-end hospitality at the Ritz Carlton, he was at Tasty ’n Alder, one of the best restaurants in Portland. His recipe for steak tartare was featured in Tasty’s cookbook. When he came to Bend, he was chef de cuisine at Bos Taurus before joining the staff at Pronghorn. The other sous chef, Fabrice Beaudoin, previously executive chef at Sunriver, is a classically trained French chef.

The pedigree doesn’t stop in the kitchen. Director of Food and Beverage Jason Ray has a background at luxury resorts like Four Seasons and Auberge , which evident in the attentive staff. Despite the staff’s combined experience, the food is not fussy, and the ambiance fits into Central Oregon’s casual-upscale style.

A friend and I began our dinner with the Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, which was less seared than I had hoped as its texture matched the brioche French toast on which it was served. Oregon huckleberry compote added a fruity sweetness that complemented the dish well.

We went on to share the Salt Roasted Beet and Arugula Salad. The salt brings out the sweetness of the red and yellow beets. Small orange slices and peppery arugula in a blood orange vinaigrette balances the sweet with a sour bite. Feta cheese is crumbled into small bits so it’s included in each bite. My friend called it “beautiful perfection.” I agreed.

The two entrees we ordered went well together, and I would highly recommend ordering them and sharing them. The first was the Ricotta Gnocchi, a vegetarian dish that was so filled with perfectly cooked seasoned vegetables — cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, green beans, mushrooms, thin-sliced delicata squash rings — that you would never miss the meat. Breaded gnocchi was filled with light ricotta cheese, and crunchy parsnip Parmesan broda (fried ribbons) added texture.

Our other entree was the Carlton Farms Double Bone-in Pork Chops. These pork chops were heaven. Cooked sous vide then seared, the impossibly tender meat stood atop calvados jus. Calvados is thick like a demi-glace and made with apple, butter and holiday spices that give it sweetness and tang that’s reminiscent of a plum pudding. Because it wasn’t poured over the pork, I could dip the meat to get as much jus as I wanted. It was served with rutabagas, turnips, apples and rainbow chard that soaked up the calvados jus flavor. Be prepared to pick up the pork chop and eat it as the sauce caramelized near the bone, and each bite was delicious.

A couple of other friends were eager to return with me for the Sunday champagne brunch. The bartender started us off with a very drinkable prosecco in flutes as we sat at the table. My friends decided to go a little crazy ordering starters that they shared with me along with our entrees.

We began with Crispy Pesto Polenta. The rectangle polenta pieces had a little cheese and a nice corn flavor. The pesto sauce was available for dipping but wasn’t pungent enough to stand up to the polenta. It also came with a red sauce that was a thick tomato paste. We enjoyed the polenta best when we dipped into the arrabbiata red sauce from the Goat Cheese Dumplings.

Similar to a marinara sauce, arrabbiata (meaning “angry” in Italian) has a bit more kick because it includes red chili peppers (often red chili flakes). That kick also complements the tart, ample goat cheese in the dumplings.

Our main dishes were varied. The Dungeness Crab Pannequet Au Gratin was filled with Dungeness crab with a hint of ricotta for creaminess. It came with a few pannequets (small stuffed crepes) covered in a creamy champagne sauce with a touch of melted gruyere cheese. The crab dominated the flavors, which wasn’t unpleasant as it was quite fresh. It was a good choice for a cold day.

We also ordered the Avocado Toast Tartine. Fresh small chunks of avocado were layered on grilled bread, mixed with flavorful capers and housemade sweet pickled red onions. Smokey (house-smoked) tender salmon and fresh dill were piled onto the avocado. It’s served with your choice of egg on top. This was one of the better preparations of avocado toast that I’ve had. We thought a slice of lemon on the side would have brought out the fresh flavors even more.

For a sweet breakfast choice, we picked the Dutch Baby (sometimes called a German pancake). This cross between a popover and a pancake puffed up around the edges. In the center, huckleberry added sweetness and lemon curd brightened the dish. A light mascarpone (like whipped Italian cream cheese) sat in the center to bring a dairy finish, and it was lightly sprinkled with powdered sugar. The flavors complimented each other to create a not-too-sweet, excellent alternative to pancakes.

We finished with a sweet sampler. The cinnamon rolls were the star here. One friend was reticent to try them as they looked decadently sweet. However, we realized that these were the most subtle flavored, light cinnamon rolls we’d ever had. The frosting was cream cheese with very little sugar. They were made in a silicon mold that steamed the dough, keeping it moist. The cinnamon swirl brought a light flavor without being too sweet. The donut holes were covered in sugar, their crunchy exterior covering a little ball of light, moist insides. A baby bundt banana bread was the third sample. It’s gluten-free, and as such, we forgave the little cake for its one-note taste and heaviness.

What: Cascada at Pronghorn Resort

Where: 65600 Pronghorn Club Drive, Bend

Hours: 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday; Sunday, brunch 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., dinner 5 to 9 p.m.

Contact: 866-320-5024 or pronghornresort.com/activities/dine/cascada/ 

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